Dog Breeds - Of Hybrids, Mutts And Purebred Dogs

By Kayyne Nynne

Ever noticed the sniffy hauteur with which purebred dog owners appraise mixed breed dogs? You can almost see them flinch as their condescending eye roves across the form of the objectionable mutt while they grudgingly concede that perhaps their refined canine specimen and that pollutant mutt do indeed belong to the same species! In fact you need only trawl various online dog forums to experience firsthand just how contentious the issue of mutt versus purebred really is. Yet much as purebred dog owners may put down the humble mutt or mixed breed dog the strange thing is:

Purebred Dogs Are Merely Strain-Refined Mutts!

Doberman Pinscher: The Doberman Pinscher dog breed was the brainchild of door-to-door tax collector Herr Louis Doberman. Whether Herr Doberman developed this dog breed as enforcer or protector has never been truly established but one aspect that is not in contention is the fact that his was an unenviable profession! It is well documented that since biblical times the tax collector has been much reviled; even today the tax collector is the subject of scorn and disgust. If you truly want to belabor the point, the next time you are at a social gathering, casually mention that you work for the IRS and watch the little-witnessed phenomenon of how so many can disappear so quickly!

However back to Herr Doberman and his dangerous profession; tired of being pushed about and quite possibly being set upon by irate tax payers, poor Herr Doberman came up with the novel yet economic solution of developing a dog breed that would be both enforcer and protector! The "ingredients" for his new dog breed included the following: Rottweiler; German Pinscher; Greyhound and the Manchester Terrier. Though some wishful fanciers contend that the German Shepherd dog was also involved in the genetic compilation of the Doberman Pinscher, this is highly unlikely since the development of the German Shepherd occurred a little later than that of the Doberman Pinscher.

The early form of the Doberman Pinscher dog was not the sleek lean machine that epitomizes the breed today, but it was a heavier-boned dog somewhat more similar in appearance to the Rottweiler dog breed. Subsequent tweaks by later breeders eventually resulted with the sleek contemporary dog that defines the modern Doberman Pinscher. The point of note here is that the Doberman Pinscher, a well-known dog breed that is officially recognized by countless of International Kennels such as the AKC, was a crossbreed developed from various other dog breeds before it attained the holy-grail status of purebred!

Verdict: The Doberman Pinscher, like all the other so-called purebred dogs is nothing more than a strain refined mutt. Sniff! What can I say...these pesky mongrels are everywhere, most of them disguising themselves as well-established purebreds!

Designer/Hybrid Dogs

Though the Labradoodle is widely accredited as the crossbreed dog that set the whole designer-dog movement rolling along at a good clip, the truth of the matter is that other well established crossbreeds already existed. One such crossbreed or so-called designer dog is the Cockerpoo (Cockapoo), a cross between the American Cocker Spaniel and a Miniature Poodle. The Cockerpoo has been in existence since the 1960s (in contrast to the Labradoodle which was developed in the 1980s). The Cockerpoo is currently so well established in North America that there is a strong movement to consolidate a breeding standard.

These days "Oodles" or "Poos" (Poodle hybrids) are practically everywhere in North America for the simple reason they translate into mega bucks. Though the Labradoodle (perhaps the best known Poodle derivative) was developed with a utilitarian purpose in mind, most designer dogs have no other function than to propel a burgeoning and lucrative market for these hybrid dogs; as it so happens, backyard breeders very quickly recognized the enormous profits to be had from designer dogs.

To date the designer dog market is flourishing, strong evidence that people are quite willing to shell out mega bucks so as to differentiate themselves from the rest of the crowd. And perhaps you've noticed, nobody refers to these mutts as well...mutts, for the simple reason crossbreeds do not satisfy people's sniff factor! (Sniff Factor defines the human tendency to snobbishness; in earlier times the upper classes were predisposed to strolling about with their noses pointed skywards as an expression of their obvious class superiority (as though reaching for air unpolluted by the masses!) Calling a mongrel a designer dog is certain to guarantee a far better price than if the animal were addressed as a crossbreed.

The unfortunate fallout of this whole designer dog issue, is that there're now many more dogs in shelters and rescues, as well as dogs being euthanized, because of unethical breeders, who without regard to genetics, breed thousands of these dogs every year in a bid to capitalize on the public's ignorance and insatiable appetite for "exclusive" or "limited" dogs.

So how did this designer dog brouhaha really begin?

Good Intentions Open Pandora's Box

Sometime during the 1980s, Wally Conron, the breeding manager for the Royal Guide Dog Association of Australia embarked on a quest to develop a non-allergenic guide dog for a visually impaired client whose husband happened to be allergic to common dog fur. Conron settled on the standard Poodle as the ideal cross with the already established Labradors in use at their center, for the simple fact that the Poodle,s as a highly trainable working dog with tightly curled coat, constituted a the best-fit match.

After two years of trials including 33 successive disappointment runs, Wally Conron hit pay dirt! A cross mating between one of their most prized Labradors and a Poodle specimen resulted in a litter of 3 non-allergenic puppies. Sultan the 1st ever Labradoodle destined for guide-dog greatness was introduced to his new owner amidst great fanfare. The bonding was a great success and Conron was confident that the remaining two puppies would quickly be snapped up; after all, the center at which he worked had a 6-month backlog of requests from people hoping to foster a dog. But he miscalculated; nobody it seemed wanted a dog that was associated with the dirty word crossbreed.

As eight weeks rolled by, the remaining two pups still hadn't found homes and the critical-period window in which they needed to bond with a new owner and thus become successful guide dogs was closing fast. Out of sheer frustration Wally Conron decided to call his new dog breed the Labradoodle and thenceforth stopped referring to them as crossbreeds. That was the eureka moment he had been waiting for (evidence of the sniff factor in play again)!

Within weeks, requests for this new "miracle dog" inundated the center...the rest as the saying goes, was history! Other than the Labradoodle, few designer dogs have been developed for utilitarian purposes and in fact for the most part new breeds are introduced for purely cosmetic purposes. Having said that though, it would be remiss not to acknowledge the fact that some new dog breeds are currently being developed to address the all pervasive problem of genetic disease in the canine; especially in the more popular breeds.

Some other well-established crossbreeds are the Bull Boxer which is a cross between the Boxer and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. The Bull Boxer is said to be a more affable dog, especially towards other pets, than the Staffordshire Bull Terrier and is also reputed to be less inclined to exhibit the immature behaviorisms characteristic of the Boxer. By and large though, the substantial prevalence of the designer-dog set is to be found firmly within the realm of Poodle mixes. Such Poodle mixes usually go by names, which if not exactly flattering, are to say the least, colorful:

1. Doxiepoo (Dachshund Poodle Mix)

2. Papipoo (Papillon Poodle Mix)

3. Goldendoodle (Golden Retriever Poodle Mix)

4. Jack-A-Poo (Jack Russell Terrier Poodle Mix)

5. Irish Doodle (Irish Setter Poodle Mix) to name but a few.

Verdict: Sniff! These dogs may go under the guise of designer dog...but let's be honest, they are no more than glorified mutts!

The Humble Yet Ubiquitous Mutt

So where does the lowly mutt fit in this picture of brave new doggy world; that is to say, other than bearing the brunt of the purebred afficionado's scorn! Well as I have amply illustrated in the paragraphs above, all dog breeds are essentially mixed breeds even the purebreds. Purebred dogs are so entitled because over several generations they have been specifically bred for selective traits. But therein lies their Achilles' heel or weakness. Due to such selective-trait breeding, purebred dogs have an inherently high prevalence of genetic disease.

A classic example illustrating some of the problems encountered in trait-selective breeding can be found in the history of the Dalmatian. Breeding for the sharply-defined spot trait unintentionally also led to selective breeding for an abnormal uric acid gene (case of gene linkage). The result was that the Dalmatian dog breed was dogged (no pun intended) with hereditary urine stone disease. In an attempt to rectify the problem yet retain the desired spot pattern, the Dalmatian was crossbred with various Pointer breeds (Sniff! Sniff! What did I tell you...all mutts the lot of them!).

Conversely the lack of trait-selective breeding and a diverse gene pool in the mutt makes such dogs so much healthier and more robust than their purebred counterparts! Thus unless you're going to develop your own dog breed, if all you're looking for in a dog is a pet, do yourself, your pocket as well as the millions of dogs on death row a favor and adopt a dog from a shelter! Trust me, they make excellent pets. (Shelters cannot house dogs forever and each year more than 7,000,000 cats and dogs are euthanized!)

Verdict: Hmmm...the lowly mutt. At last! A dog without pretensions!

Dog Breeds

Kayye Nynne is the webmaster of http://www.dog-breeds-spot.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kayyne_Nynne

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How to Care for a Skunk Sprayed Dog

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Has your dog been sprayed or been near a skunk? Don't let this pup stink up your house! Try the following solution to get your dog smelling clean in no time.

Steps

1. Do not run water over your dog. This only increases the stink, and if the dog has dry, or cracked skin, the spray can get into his or her skin, and cause burning. This also can lead to skin problems later.
   
2. Mix about 3/4 of a big bottle of hydrogen peroxide with about 3-6 tablespoons of baking soda. This is for a small dog. For a medium sized dog, use twice as much, and 3 times as much for a big dog.
   
3. Scrub the solution gently all over your dog. Do not leave in solution for more than 5 minutes. If so this may cause damage to the animal's fur, the texture may be affected as well as the color. It is advisable to use disposable gloves because dry or cracked skin may cause burring. If you do this outside, your house won't stink as much, and it would be better for everyone.
   
4. If stinking persists, make some more of the solution, or call your vet for other ideas.
   
5. You can also try a very effective product recommended to me by my veterinarian “DoggiCLEEN Skunk Spray”. This simple formula gets rid of skunk odor on dogs very effectively without harsh chemicals or costly veterinarian bills.
   
6. Try to keep your dog in the backyard, if you are missing a fence or have a swimming pool, try to keep him or her in the basement (in his or her cage) or a room that you don't usually use.
   

Tips

• If your house was in close proximity to the spray (i.e. the skunk sprayed on the porch or under the foundation), an effective way to remove the odor indoors (and bring back some of your sanity) is to use one or several "air ionizers" which release ozone, but PLEASE NOTE: the EPA recognizes breathing ionized air is harmful to humans and animals, so only cleanse the house with it at times when the premises are vacated
  
• A safer solution is "Biocide Systems’ Skunk 911 Home Kit and Skunk 911 Rescue Kit". They remove the skunk odor – not mask it and are affordable, non-invasive and eco-friendly.
  
• Simply "sniffing for a skunk" is not always an accurate way of determining whether there is one in the vicinity of your house or not, since you may be dealing with one that is "undiffused" (would you navigate a minefield by saying, "There's no craters here, so it must be safe to take a step!")
  
• Skunks seek human garbage (just like those animals in "Over the Hedge"), so it would be a good idea to use garbage cans with tightly fitting lids to help prevent such tempting odors from calling to skunks and other animals.
  
• Some people report that skunks like to dig in their soft garden dirt for delicious worms and grubs, but that planting a hedge of marigolds around the perimeter discourages this behavior
  
• Put some "live traps" out or buy some Coyote pee, and put it on a cotton pad and place around the perimeter of your property. This not only keeps skunks out, but raccoons as well as possums.
  
• If you do put a trap out, you can call the county animal shelter to come pick up the trap with the skunk.
  
• Also, if the above mixture does not work well, try washing your dog in tomato juice and rinsing well.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to De Skunk Your Pet
  
• How to Get a Skunk to Leave
  
• How to Give a Small Dog a Bath
  
• How to Give Your Large Dog a Bath
  
• How to Have Fun Giving Your Dog a Flea Bath
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Care for a Skunk Sprayed Dog. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

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How To Groom Your Dog At Home

By Ken Mathie

Well groomed dogs are much healthier than those who are not regularly groomed. Matted or knotted hair can lead to yeast infections, periodontal disease can result from neglected teeth, and ear infections are common in dogs who are not groomed as well. The tips in this article will tell you how to groom your dog at home to keep him healthy, clean, and easy to care for.

Before you get started grooming your dog, make sure you have all the supplies that you will need. Gather items for cleaning your dog's eyes and ears, nail trimmers, as well as hair trimmers or scissors, and teeth and mouth cleaning tools. You will also need shampoo, a heavy towel, and tools to brush your dog's fur.

The first step in grooming your dog is to brush him very thoroughly. Be sure to untangle any knots or matted sections of hair because these will be nearly impossible to remove after they're wet. Use a quality dog brush that will free loose hair and dirt and that will distribute the oils thought your dog's coat. If your dog has short hair, brush out his coat with a glove or curry brush. If your dog has longer hair, you may need a durable pin brush or a slicker, or even an undercoat rake. If you find any mats that can't be removed by brushing, use a trimmer to cut it away. Matted hair that is left unattended can allow bacteria to grow on the skin, resulting in a yeast infection.

To save time and effort, you should take care of any trimming before giving your dog a bath. If you will be cutting away any large sections of your dog's hair, it would simply be a waste of time, energy, and shampoo to wash them first!

Next, you should clean your dog's eyes. The amount of maintenance your dog's eyes require will depend on the type of dog you have. Clean and healthy eyes should be clear with no evidence of irritation, discharge, or other complications. Carefully clean away any debris in the corners of the eyes with warm water. Dogs that are light in color or have long hair may need a special product that removes tear stains to clean their coats.

Cleaning your dog's ears is the next step in grooming. Most dogs do not like their ears being cleaned and your dog may be difficult to keep still. Put a small amount of ear cleaning solution on a cotton ball or small cloth and wipe the inside of your dog's ear to remove any wax or dirt that may have accumulated. Be very gentle so you don't irritate the sensitive skin inside the ear and avoid going to deep into the ear to prevent damage. Dab a few drops of rubbing alcohol into his ear to dry any water and to get rid of any ear mites or bacteria, then wipe the ear one last time with a dry cotton ball or swab. If you see anything unusual with your dog's ears, like irritation, swelling, or an odd odor, you should contact your veterinarian because it could be a sign of infection. Clean, healthy ears should not have an odor and should only contain a small amount of wax. Remember to warm any ear cleaning products, alcohol, or medications in room temperature water before using them inside your dog's ears.

Once you've brushed your dog and removed any matted hair and cleaned his eyes and ears, it is time to clean his teeth. Statistics show that only about 20% of dogs have healthy teeth and are not suffering from periodontal disease. A large buildup of tartar on your dog's teeth will be digested over time, causing problems with his liver and kidney. To avoid these problems, you should clean your dog's teeth at least twice a week.

You can brush your dog's teeth using a toothbrush or a piece of gauze over your fingertip. The Pets Tooth Brush is a specially designed glove with soft bristles on both the thumb and the forefinger. Most dogs are not too fond of having their teeth cleaned, but they typically prefer a human touch like this glove rather than a hard toothbrush. Whatever you use, it may take some time to get your dog comfortable with the process. There are also antimicrobial sprays, like the one made by Petzlife, that can easily be sprayed inside your dog's mouth to kill bacteria. Make sure you use teeth and mouth products made specifically for dogs to prevent accidental poisoning or illness.

If your dog will allow you to, you can use a standard dental scraper to gently remove tartar buildup from his teeth. Simply cleaning his mouth and teeth two to three times a week and giving him rawhide or frozen bones to gnaw on should be enough to keep his teeth clean and healthy. Again, remember to only use pet products in your dog's mouth. Human toothpaste is not made to be swallowed and could make your dog sick.

The last step of grooming you should do before bathing your dog is to attend to his nails. Neglected nails can create all sorts of painful problems. Nails that are too long can cause your dog to walk differently or curl into the bottom of his foot, or even lead to skeletal damage. Puppies or miniature breeds can have their nailed trimmed with regular nail clippers, but most dogs require clippers made specifically for dogs. Only trim a very small piece of the nail and repeat as often as necessary. Most dogs need their nails trimmed about once a week, but some breeds can go for a month before needing trimmed again. If you cut the nail too short and it starts to bleed, apply a small amount of corn starch or styptic powder to the area and hold pressure until the bleeding stops.

Now it is time to give your dog a bath. If your dog is nervous or apprehensive in the tub, you may need a special leash designed for use in the bath. These often feature suction cups to keep the dog restrained and your hands free to wash him. Remove your dog's collar before placing him in the tub and use a waterproof collar that won't damage your dog's coat or skin if you need a way to restrain him. Make sure your dog is completely dry before you put his collar back on to prevent sores around his neck. Wait about 12 hours.

It is best to wash your dog with running water, rather than filling the tub and washing him in dirty water, but many dogs are frightened by the sound of water. Work with your dog gently, without force, to get him accustomed to baths and remember to be patient because it may take time. Get your dog completely wet. An attachment hose for your shower head or bath faucet or even a pressurized spray nozzle on your outdoor hose will work well for most dogs. Again, remember to be patient with your dog if he is apprehensive.

You have already cleaned your dog's ears, eyes, and mouth, so you can start washing around his neck and then work your way down over the rest of his body. Use a shampoo appropriate for your dog and dilute it with a small amount of water. Diluting your dog shampoo will make it rinse easier without leaving soap residue behind. Work in small sections, applying a bit of the shampoo to your hand and working it into the dog's fur. If your dog has a thick coat, you can use a curry brush like the one available by Kong Zoom Groom to work the shampoo through. If you are bathing a dog with long hair, smooth the shampoo through the coat rather than brushing it in to avoid knots and unruly tangles. When you have finished washing your dog's body, carefully shampoo his head.

Rinse your dog completely before removing him from the water. Hot spots, or bald patches of skin that are itchy and uncomfortable, are caused by shampoo left in your dog's coat. Rinse him with clean, running water until the water runs clear of both soap and dirt.

Once your dog is rinsed well, you can get him out of the tub and dry him. Use a thick, soft towel to absorb most of the water and allow your dog to shake himself as well. Make sure you dry his feet very well to prevent fungus or bacteria from growing in his paws. If your dog has a short, easy to manage coat, you are finished grooming him.

Dogs with long hair, thick coats, and curly hair require a little more maintenance. If your dog has a lot of hair, you can use a blow dryer to speed up the drying process. Take care not to dry the hair completely with the appliance because you may cause damage to his skin. A brush, along with the blow dryer, can help keep long-haired dogs free of mats and tangles. Dogs with curly hair, like poodles, must be dried completely to keep their coats looking good.

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Copyright 2007. Ken Mathie. Editor PMCezine...
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The Language of Dog Growls

By Laurie Luck

Growling is a normal form of doggie communication. Growling, along with body language and other vocalizations, gives us a view into the doggie psyche, into what's going on in a dog's brain. In this article, we're going to dissect a growl - what does it mean, what should you do?

What is A Growl?

Dogs can't use words to communicate, so they rely on body language and vocalizations (growls, barks, and whines, to name a few) to "have conversations." Dogs converse with other dogs, as well as with people with these vocalizations. To really understand your dog, you have to know what growling does - and does not - mean.

Why Do Dogs Growl?

Not all growls are created equal. To decipher the meaning of a growl, we need to find out why the dog is growling. There are many reasons dogs growl - when playing, dreaming, protecting something of value, if they feel threatened, or scared.

What Does A Growl Mean?

Dog-to-Dog Growls

As mentioned earlier, it's important to take into consideration the context in which your dog is growling. Remember, dogs don't have words. They can only use their body language and vocalizations to communicate with their dog friends. Growling is one way dogs communicate with one another. Sometimes dogs growl when they are playing happily with another dog-friend.

Wondering how to tell the difference between a serious and a playful growl? Take a look at the dog's bodies. Do you see the following?

• "Loose" bodies (not rigid and stiff)
• Mutual playing (both dogs are content to play together, neither one looks scared or threatened)
• Willingness to continue playing together (if one gets the chance to leave, does he?)
• Cooperative play (dogs take turns "winning" or pinning each other)

If you see these things, the dogs are most likely engaging in normal dog-play. If either dog looks scared, looks like they are bullying the other dog, or moves stiffly, it's time to interrupt play-time and let them settle down before allowing them to play again.

Dogs also growl to communicate their uneasiness. Your dog may growl at another dog if that dog is:

• Unfamiliar
• Too close to a valued object
• Behaving inappropriately (jumping on your dog, for instance)
• Crowding your dog's space

Dog-to-Human Growls

Much like dog-to-dog growling, dogs have different reasons for growling at humans. Some dogs growl playfully when interacting with humans. Other dogs growl at children, or men with hats, or some other elusive reason. Again, look at the context in which the growling happens - what does the dog's body language tell you? Is he stiff or floppy?

What NOT To Do If Your Dog Growls

Knowing there are different reasons behind your dogs' growls, it's important to pay attention to the situation before deciding what to do with a growl. If the growl is playful, you probably don't have to do anything about it, unless the growling bothers you. If you think the growl is more serious, it's important to proceed with caution.

A growl is a good, clear warning signal and one that we should heed. The dog is clearly telling us that he's not comfortable with the situation. The most important thing to note is that a growl is information. Punishing the dog for growling will not fix the problem. Punishing a growl will only take that form of communication away from your dog. The next time your dog is in the same situation, he will try a different form of communication - this time he may snarl or even snap. If you punish this form of communication, you'll have a dog that bites without warning.

Forcing your dog to tolerate a situation that makes him uncomfortable is a recipe for disaster. By doing this, you are giving the dog no option to get out of the situation. If, for example, your dog is uncomfortable around small children and you hold your dog's collar while allowing children to approach your dog, you aren't helping alleviate your dog's discomfort. You are actually contributing to the discomfort which could lead to a snarl, snap, or a bite. What to Do

If Your Dog Growls

Your first order of business is to determine what makes your dog uncomfortable in the situation. Is it the presence of small children surrounding him, another dog near a prized possession? Is he scared? Does he feel threatened? Once you know why your dog is uncomfortable, you can then do something about hearing his "call of distress" and do something to help him.

Here are some basic steps to follow. Please note that if you are afraid that your dog will bite, consult a professional positive reinforcement dog trainer and do not proceed with the following steps.

In this example let's assume the dog is growling when you approach his food bowl.

1. Begin to hand feed your dog his meals. No more food in the bowl. If there isn't food in the bowl, he's much less likely to "guard" the bowl. Bonus: And it's you that gives the dog the food. Therefore you become an important and welcome link to the food.

2. After your dog is eagerly accepting his food from your hand, begin to re-introduce the food bowl. Put the food bowl in your lap and drop three or four pieces of your dog's food in the bowl. When he finishes those kibbles, drop three or four more in. Continue this until the dog's entire meal has been eaten.

3. Once your dog is looking forward to your hand moving to his empty bowl to add more food, reserve an extra special treat (chicken, steak, fish - something REALLY delicious that he doesn't normally get). Put five to ten pieces of food in his bowl and while he's eating, drop in this delicious morsel. Your dog is learning that really good things happen when your hand moves toward his bowl.

4. If your dog readily accepts your hand approaching his bowl when he has a few kibbles in it, begin putting more kibble

in his bowl and then adding a delicious morsel every few moments.

Note: This process could take days, weeks, or months depending on your dog. Don't rush these steps. If you are afraid that your dog will bite, DO NOT engage in this process. Find a professional positive reinforcement dog trainer.

By following these steps, you are solving the underlying problem (the dog's dislike of approaching people) instead of just getting rid of his warning system. If, instead of implementing the steps above, you punished your dog for growling (by yelling or swatting at him, or taking his food bowl away), you are doing two things: (1) reinforcing his belief that people who approach his food bowl are dangerous and (2) getting rid of a perfectly good warning system. You are not, I repeat NOT, fixing the underlying problem.

Dogs can't use words. It is up to each of us to listen to our dogs and try our best to decipher their language. Not all growls are created equal - know your dog. We expect dogs to listen to us, isn't it time we start listening to them?

Laurie Luck, CPDT
Certified Pet Dog Trainer
Smart Dog University, LLC
Box 1111
Mount Airy, MD 21771
(240) 848-3468
laurie@smartdoguniversity.com
http://www.SmartDogUniversity.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Laurie is one of only 1,300 certified pet dog trainers (CPDT) in the world and is the founder of Smart Dog University. She has been helping dogs and their owners for more than a decade. She is passionate about dog-friendly training and eschews punishment.

She works with dog lovers because she understand how frustrating it can be when people want to spend time with their dog, but don't know how to get him to listen.

She loves what she does and has developed many happy friendships, both canine and human, along the way.

Laurie is owned by four dogs: two Labradors, a Great Dane Hound Cross, and an Australian shepherd.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Laurie_Luck

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Teaching Dog Tricks - The Easy Way

By Andrew Strachan

If you were to ask what the quickest and easiest method was for teaching your dog a new trick, the answer would be - work with the nature of your dog, not against it. What we mean here is that you should look at what tricks your dog naturally does, or look for a dog trick 'in the making', like naturally putting a paw on your knee or rolling over etc.

If you choose a dog trick that naturally occurs, half your work is already done. Your dog will probably be eager to please as most dogs are and should therefore respond well to rewards. You can build on this to reinforce your dogs' natural ability rather than starting an entirely new dog trick.

Which Dog Trick Do You Choose?

Observe your dog and watch out for a potential dog trick. This may be something as simple as crawling along on its belly to, catching a Frisbee or a ball. As soon as your dog 'performs' one of it's natural tricks, associate it with a hand gesture or verbal command and then reward your dog with its favorite treat. It won't be long before your dog learns the procedure.

Eventually over time, you will be able to cut back on the rewards until your dog will perform the dog trick with just the hand gesture or verbal command such as 'fetch' or 'go get'. Now that the new trick is firmly lodged in your dogs' head, you will be able to build on it.

For example, if you have taught your dog to catch a Frisbee, how about increasing the distance that he will catch it from, or throw two Frisbee's one after the other. Get your dog to catch one, drop it and then run for the other!

Popular Dog Tricks

Some of the most popular dog tricks are 'sit' and 'come' etc. These are pretty simple to teach. To teach your dog to sit, with your dog standing firmly press on its hind quarters directly above it's back legs whilst at the same time saying the word 'Sit' quite assertively but NOT shouting. Most dogs will naturally sit. At this point, heap lots of praise on your dog and then give them a treat. After several repetitions of this, your dog will soon learn what 'Sit' means. Do not try this on older dogs that may have arthritis in their hind legs or hips.

If your dog does not sit when told, NEVER scold it. Just ignore it and try again another time. Otherwise your dog will associate 'Sit' with being scolded. If your dog persistently fails to sit, try another trick.

Each dog has different talents.

To teach your dog to come is simple. When your dog is at a distance, say loudly but not shouting 'Come here' or 'Come'. This will usually get your dogs' attention. Repeat the statement 'Come on', 'Come here'. Most untrained dogs at this point will probably look away and carry on with whatever it was doing.

At this point walk up to your dog but keep within around 5 feet away. Say 'Come here'. Your dog will probably now come to you. When he does, it's time for a lot of praise and a treat. Repeat this but increase the distance that your dog has to walk towards you more each time. Eventually, your dog will instinctively come to you whenever it hears you shout 'Come here', from any distance.

Again, if your dog fails to come to you, DO NOT scold it. I once got asked "Why won't my dog come to me?" On further investigation I found out that every time the dog ran away and then failed to come back, the owners would scold the dog when they got hold of it again. WRONG! The dog started to associate the command 'Come here' with a scolding. Totally the opposite. No wonder the dog failed to come to command.

Another dog trick you can try is 'Paw'. This involves saying 'Paw' then gently lifting the dogs paw with your hand followed by lots of praisetreats. After a while saying 'Paw' will cause your dog to raise its paw. You can extend this to two paws where your dog 'Sits pretty' on its haunches.

Another trick is 'Speak'. This usually works best with a naturally vocal dog. Every time your dog howls or makes a funny noise, praise the dog whilst saying the command ' Speak'. Eventually your dog will speak on command.

Teaching your dog a new dog trick should be a fun experience for both of you, and will give you lots of quality time together. Enjoy!

Article by Andrew Strachan. Find out more about dog behavior training and types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Strachan

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I Am The Dog Whisperer

By Ami Moore

I am the Dog Whisperer. All too often I see you after a traumatic experience with your dog, when you are scared and upset. You call me to rescue you from chaos and insanity, but it is already too late.

Your life is in shambles, the neighbors hate you, a child is disfigured, the victim is pressing charges, the police are at the door, and your home is at risk. I, however, can't turn back the hands of time and prevent the fatal attack, but I can help you and your family move forward and plan for tomorrow. I am the Dog Whisperer.

When your heart is broken, I'm quickly on the scene. I will repair the lost hope; rekindle the loving feeling that you once had toward your dog. In time, I will help you learn to trust your dog again, and I will help you dog learn to trust in you once more. I am the Dog Whisperer.

Sometimes you are frustrated with the inconvenience and expense of having to hire me. But when you call, I will be right there with the tools and training to resolve your dog training concern so that you, your family and your community can feel safe and secure. I am the Dog Whisperer.

I am available to help you house train your little Christmas puppy. I am there to place the missing obedience training on your out of control, hormonally driven adolescent dog so that he can stop jumping up on Grandma. We can help the shelter or rescue dog fit into your lifestyle easily, safely and sanely. Even though you may have picked a dog that does not fit in with your lifestyle: it's too big, too mean, too hyper, with my training and gentle touch, I can make sure that the dog learns to follow your direction. I am the Dog Whisperer.

In the best of all worlds, you will call me to help you with your new spring time puppy, you'd call me to help you pick the right dog from the shelter and you'd call me to so that I could talk you out of purchasing that puppy from the pet store. I offer products and services to help protect that which is yours. I read magazines, attend seminars and belong to trade groups so that I can increase my knowledge and my ability to help you solve your problems. I am the Dog Whisperer.

I am a Dog Whisperer. I am a psychologist, a teacher, a poet, a shaman, an artist, a preacher, a parent. I deal with people that are upset and dogs that are upset; I calm the savage beast within each one of you. I have been trained to secure and protect your children, your home, your assets and even your life. I have devoted my life to help you have the American Dream; a happy family with a happy dog.

Who Am I? I am an Animal Rights Activist. I believe that animals have the right to be educated so that they can fit into our modern life. I believe that it is inhumane and immoral to have an untrained, uneducated dog that is a danger to the family and the community. Our domestic dog has the right to have the kindest, the best, the most effective, most humane training tools and methods used for their education.

Who Am I? I am a Pro-Choice Activist. People have the right to have all training tools and training methods at their disposal so that they can make an informed choice as to what tools, techniques and tips will work best with their dog, their lifestyle and their personality.

Who Am I? I am a Pro-Life Activist. I believe that murdering dogs for bad behavior when a particular training tool or training technique fails them. If one training tool or technique fails, then the dog and the owner have the right to seek relief and rehabilitation from other dog professionals that may use alternative techniques.

Who Am I? I am Pro-Family Values. Good families deserve to own good dogs. Good dogs are dogs that are well-mannered, tolerate children, are polite to strangers and do not poop, pee or bite where or when it is inappropriate. Good dogs create good families, good families create good neighborhoods, and good neighborhoods create good cities.

Who Am I? I support Breed Tolerance. All breeds can be trained and educated to be good family members, good community members and assets to our modern life. I despise Breed Bigots, the radical elements in American society that claim a dog's breed matters more than his behavior. Punish the deed, don't exterminate the breed.

Who Ami I? I defer to Mother Nature, for she always knows best. The best way to rehabilitate a dog is to treat it like a dog, not like us. The dog is born on to this planet to experience life as a dog, not a person. Mother Nature is always right, always appropriate and never makes mistakes. So if you communicate with a dog in his language respecting the particulars of his dog culture, then a good dog is always the result.

Who Am I? I am a Fido Freedom Fighter: I believe that dogs think and feel much like people do. I do not believe that the dog is a unthinking, unfeeling, "black box" that operates on a simple reward/punishment paradigm. I know that the dog dreams, the dog remembers, the dog thinks and that the dog has a soul, in his own doggie way. I believe that dogs deserve to have as much freedom as good manners and good grooming will allow them in our modern lives, which means well mannered dogs should be allowed everywhere. I believe that good dog training should not be a crime. I am the Dog Whisperer and I support the National Urban Eden Day's "Good Dog" Doctrine.

The Urban Eden "Good Dog" Doctrine

The public has the right to be safe from dog bites. The public has the right to act stupid around dogs, and not get bitten.

The public has a right to clean, healthy, well-groomed, well-behaved, "invisible" dogs.

The public has the right to not step in dog droppings.

The public, when in a public space, has the right to not be pestered by a dog's bad behavior such as: barking, sniffing, being jumped up on, licking, pawing, whining, growling, biting, humping of things, peeing on things. For more information on Urban Eden Day go to http://www.dogdoright.com/urban-eden-day.htm

ALL ABOUT AMI

Her first and true love is canine behavior modification and problem solving. Ami Moore has pioneered the use of electric dog training equipment as positive reinforcement, and combined this groundbreaking innovation with the dog's natural drive to follow a strong leader.

From my point of view, a proper and balanced dog-human relationship is something that every person who has dogs in their life should experience, just as everyone should experience falling in love.

Student's ask me why I train my dogs, I tell them that "From my point of view, I train because I am very, very lazy and I want to to where I want, when I want; and I want to take my dogs with me when I go." And then, I always add, " Training dogs, my personal dogs, equals freedom for for them. I want my dogs to have a beautiful life from a dog's point of view. For a dog that means he has someone to follow and somewhere to go. I want my dogs to be "lucky dogs" not liabilities. http://www.dogdoright.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ami_Moore

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For working dogs, retirement can be challenging

By SUE MANNING
Associated Press

Some working dogs spend their lives outdoors and may not be house trained.

For nine years, Brac has worked like a dog at a private golf club, chasing geese and sparing members the indignity of goose poop in their spikes.

But the 10-year-old black-and-white border collie has arthritis in his legs, cataracts in his eyes and he's lost interest in the birds, so it's time for him to retire.

Larry Jones, assistant superintendent at the Roaring Fork Club in Basalt, Colo., can't keep him and has been trying to find him a good home.

"He loves everybody. He's really a sweet dog. And even though he's losing his working mojo, he still has a lot of pet mojo left," Jones said.

Working dogs like Brac are often forced to retire by age, illness or injury. But finding adoptive homes for retired working dogs can sometimes be challenging if they require medical care or have behavioral issues. Some working dogs like Brac spend their lives outdoors and may not be house trained. Others may have trouble acclimating to basic daily routines like riding in a car or climbing stairs.

Marie Turino, 35, of Freehold, N.J., fostered nearly 30 racing greyhounds before she adopted two.

"All they've ever seen is a track and a crate. They've never been in a home before, never seen a mirror or stairs," she said. She adopted Anna and Jasmine in 2002 and 2003, from different racetracks, when both dogs were 2.

"They don't know normal house sounds. The first morning, I turned on my blow dryer and Jasmine came flying, then stopped on a dime, staring at me." One of her foster dogs "went crazy when she saw a mirror and kept poking it with her nose."

She has cared for dogs with ticks, broken bones, infections and cuts on their noses from muzzles.

But not all aspects of care are difficult. "They are crate-trained so they are easy to housebreak and they don't shed much," she said. "It's easy to brush their teeth, clip their nails and clean their ears."

In some fields, retiring dogs are typically adopted by the people who work with them. About 90 percent of the dogs in the Sacramento K-9 unit retire with their handlers, Sacramento County sheriff's Deputy Brian Amos said. The rest of the deputies find homes for the dogs.

Amos and his dog Jimmy had been together four years when Jimmy was injured in training and forced to retire in 2005. The hardest part for Amos came each morning when he left for work with his new dog, Jesse.

Jimmy would bark and whine. "I felt like I was cheating on him."

Jimmy has since died of old age, but he eventually took to retirement, becoming more relaxed and less anxious, Amos said.

Since 1950, Dalmatians with names like King, Bud, Brewer, Barley and Hops have been working with teams of Clydesdale horses to promote Anheuser-Busch, based in St. Louis, Mo.

Puppies are taught basic skills at the St. Louis stables, then go out with a Clydesdale team to learn from an older dog, said Jeff Knapper, general manager of the company's Clydesdale operations. They usually retire after four or five years on the job and are nearly always adopted by their handlers. If not, there is a high demand for them because Budweiser dogs "spend a lot of time greeting the public, have a great temperament and are very social," Knapper said.

Sled dogs pose a variety of challenges as house pets. Often they walk in circles because they've been tied to posts all their lives. They also need to be house trained and learn how to walk on a leash, climb stairs, walk across slick floors without falling and ride in a car without vomiting, according to Seth Sachson, who's adopted eight sled dogs. Sachson serves as executive director of the Aspen Animal Shelter and the Aspen Boarding Kennel in Aspen, Colo.

Tracy Sargent of Cedartown, Ga., runs K9 Search & Rescue Specialists, Inc., which has responded to hundreds of calls ranging from missing persons to plane crashes to natural disasters. If a dog works for her, it retires with her, she said.

But just like people, some dogs have a tough time adjusting to retirement, Sargent said. She uses rides, mini-training camps in the yard, more ball play, longer walks and extra attention to help them make the transition. Brooke, a German shepherd, worked full-time until she was 10. Then she slowed down, her vision dimmed and she had trouble jumping in and out of a rescue vehicle. Sargent took more than a year to fully retire Brooke, taking her on shorter trips and using her for confined searches. Eventually Brooke seemed happy to stay home and rest. She lived to be nearly 16, Sargent said.

Bailey, a 13-year-old English springer spaniel, has become Christy Judah's couch pal since retiring a few months ago after more than 150 land and water searches with the Brunswick Search and Rescue Team in Brunswick County, N.C.

"He loves to search and it is not a matter of not being able to sniff out the victim, but a matter of lovingly deciding that his aging body needed a rest," Judah said.

These days Bailey gets pampering, people food and access to a bed and couch, Judah said. To keep him sharp, they still play search games, but in smaller spaces with simpler problems.

In some cases, working dogs don't retire — and neither do their owners. Patti Gibson has been running after bloodhounds for 26 years as a founding member of Illinois-Wisconsin Search Dogs, which has gone on 390 searches.

"Retirement is a dirty word," she said. "I have never retired any of my four bloodhounds. The average life span is 8 to 9 years and mine have all lived to 13 to 14 years and worked until the day they died. Bloodhounds don't seem to want to stop working."

Gibson, who is 75 years old, says "everyone needs a passion — running behind a hound is mine. It's more exciting than crocheting."

Article source: seattletimes.nwsource.com


I've also compiled a list where you can adopt service dogs

http://www.militaryworkingdogadoptions.com/

http://www.petfinder.com/shelters/northernlights.html

http://www.guidedogs.ca/

http://www.adopt-a-greyhound.org/

http://www.autismdogservices.ca/

http://www.bcguidedog.com/

http://www.canineswithacause.org/

http://www.copedogs.org/

http://www.dogswithwings.ca/

http://www.mira.ca/

http://www.dogguides.com/

http://www.nsd.on.ca/

http://www.pacck.org/

http://www.pads.ca/

http://www.westcoastteams.com/



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