Compassionate Care For Your Aging Dog

By Louise Gilbert

Dog owners are often taken by surprise when they realize their dog is getting older. Perhaps an owner has noticed their pet taking an unusually long time to get up in the mornings, or maybe the dog becomes disoriented when outside. This realization can be emotionally troubling to the owner, as he sees his pet becoming more feeble as time goes by. Compassionate care of an aging dog is necessary to ensure the well being of both the dog and owner, and prepare them both for this new stage of life.

Dogs, like humans, are living longer than ever. Depending on the breed and environment, a dogs' middle age is around seven. Veterinarians suggest that when a dog reaches seven years of age, prevention and preparation become the key elements of care. A dog should be taken to the vet at this age for a full exam in order to check the general health of the dog. Your dog should always see the vet if a pet owner notices any stiffness, bad breath, disorientation, lumps that are growing, or has a change in eating or drinking. These symptoms could be signs of something more serious that needs medical attention. As dogs age, hearing and sight deteriorate, sleep patterns change, weight may change, and the immune system of a dog can decline. Many of these physical changes bring on emotional changes as well.

For example, a dog may not recognize familiar people because of hearing or sight decline, and instead of being friendly, a dog may react with fear or anger. With a little knowledge a pet owner can make the transition into the senior years for their pet happy and healthy. Many aging dogs suffer from arthritis or stiffness in the morning or after naps. A dog owner can make a few changes in their pets' environment to make this easier on the dog. Provide a warm, soft bed for the dog to sleep in, preferably on the floor so the dog does not have to jump up onto a bed or couch. Massage is an excellent treatment for pets with stiff joints. Massaging your dog will reduce pain and increase blood flow to the body. Massage also provides a level of comfort to a dog that may be disoriented or fearful. Massage can be done at any time, but if done before bed, the dog may have a more restful night of sleep. Massage after exercise can prevent stiffness from setting in. In addition to massage, an owner should remember to groom the dog as well.

Older pets have a more difficult time keeping themselves clean, especially after eating or taking a walk. Bathe and brush when needed; your pet will love the comforting attention! Changing the dogs walking schedule may help a dog with arthritis or other medical conditions. Shorter walks, but perhaps more often, can improve stiffness and keep the dog strong and healthy. An older dog wears out quicker, so be sure not to walk so far your pet can't make it back! Exercise can improve a dogs health and mental alertness, but many older dogs become fatigued easily while exercising. Shorter, but more frequent walks also may be needed for a pet with incontinence. Aging dogs may begin to urinate inside the home. If this begins, the dog should be seen by a vet to rule out any serious medical issues. Pet stores or pharmacies sell padding for incontinence. These should be placed anywhere the pet may have gone before, as well as in the pets' bed.

At this stage in a dogs life, punishment for going indoors should be stopped, your dog doesn't want to be bad, he cannot help it. Dogs with hearing and sight loss actually adjust fairly well to these disabilities. Dogs rely on their sense of smell more than sight to find their way around. A blind dog rarely will run into anything or get into danger because they use their smell to guide them. However, a dog owner should do a few things to ensure the dog can maneuver around safely. Do not move furniture around in the house if the dog already knows where everything is located. Follow the same walking route so the dog can move freely and actively. Always keep the food, water bowls and bed in the same place. For a dog with hearing loss there are many things an owner can do to assist their pet. Speak louder when talking to the dog, but be sure that with volume the owner still maintains a pleasant voice. Use hand signals when giving a command. For example, when it's time to go for a walk, point towards the door while your dog is watching and speak to the dog.

Your pet can use these hand signals to follow the owner more easily instead of listening to voice commands. Dogs can become lethargic or depressed due to aging and illness. Keeping a dog mentally stimulated is just as important as their physical well being. Set aside play time each day for your pet. If the dog is healthy enough, spend some time in the yard throwing a ball to him, or gather other toys and just play on the floor inside. If your dog gets along with other dogs, try a "play date" with other pets. Sometimes, a younger dog can provide motivation for an older pet to play or exercise more often. Companionship for your dog, whether full or part time, can help a pet shake the depression that dogs may have as they age.

If your dogs breath is getting bad, again, have the vet check for teeth that may need to be removed, or for any other major health problems. Changing the dogs diet may be needed. Softer dog food is easier on the teeth. Provide your dog with healthy snacks and plenty of fresh water. Owners can assist their dogs by occasionally brushing their teeth for them, although many dogs wont tolerate it. Providing smaller, more frequent meals will also help your dogs digestion system. Try one of the many senior dog foods; they are lower in calories and provide the proper nutrition for an older dog. Older dogs may gain too much weight, adding to their health problems and lethargy, so the senior dog food is a good choice.

As always, plenty of love and attention will make your pet happy. Dogs are social animals, they love us, and need to express that. Allow your dog to guide you through the senior years as well. Pay attention to any signals or symptoms your pet is sending you. Follow your dogs new pace and activity level and don't over do it. Giving your dog plenty of attention now can help your pet adjust to the aches and pains of aging and provide comfort to both the owner and dog.

Louise Gilbert is passionate about saving endangered species, pets, wildlife, nature and the environment. You can view her site at Baby Wildlife and Pets [http://www.baby-mammals.com/]

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Aggression Triggers in Dogs

By Louise Basson

Aggression in dogs can be caused by many triggers. It's up to us to find out what is triggering our dogs to have behavior that comes out in the form of aggression. There are many motivational triggers to look at in dog aggression...

Leadership is one of the first and most common triggers of aggression in a multi dog house hold. In a pack of dogs or a family with more then one dog one leader will be chosen by the pack of dogs. This usually results in a fight. The one who wins is then the pack leader. This may be challenged again at times. It is important for us as humans to respect this and not treat the weaker dog of the pack with more care and attentiveness. This will only cause aggression in the leader of the pack and make life difficult for your dogs.

Pack hierarchy is the rank order of the rest of your dog pack and with each dog it is different. This can occur multiple times in order for the pack rank to move from one dog to another.

Protection of territory is important to most dogs. Some are protective of where they live, food bowl, preferred toy or his human companions or one of his human family members.

Maternal instinct can occur when the male dog comes to close to her puppies or when humans especially children come to close for comfort. It's important to avoid sudden contact with pups.

Fear/Stress can cause a dog to bite and can be apart of flight or fight decision when a dog is scared. The dog needs personal space. When introducing two dogs to each other, it's important to give them space and not hover over them the whole time. This can also be avoided by not letting a dog meet and greet being attached to a leash as the dog will feel your stress and the tightened leash. It is even better if they can meet on an area that is not familiar to any of the dogs to avoid territorial aggression. At first when adopting a second or third dog it's important to give the dog that you had first, attention and food first until they have figured out their pack dynamics.

Hunting instinct is more prone in some dog breeds then others. Huskies are well known for this as they have a high prey drive and an excited energy and can cause great harm and death to smaller dogs and animals.

Dogs that suffer from pain or is injured should always be handled with a muzzle on. An injured dog wants to protect him by the only way he knows how and that is through aggression this goes hand in hand with fear and stress related aggression. When dogs get into a fight, beating them to stop the fight can even stir up a bigger fight between the dogs.

Dogs can be competitive mostly for attention from his owners and this causes some jealousy that triggers unwanted behavior that can go over into aggression.

Dogs and kids both need boundaries and very often we let kids just play with dogs as they please. This can cause a dog to snap. There are usually many warning signs of a dog feeling frustrated by a child. Things like walking away, growling etc. But we and kids choose to ignore this and push the dog just that little bit extra. This is how kids get bitten by dogs most of the time and this is the only way they know how to say please stop now. Adult dogs do this with puppies too and discipline them this way.

When dogs play they can easily cross the point of being play full and starting to fight. It's important for us to know when they are still playing and when they are starting to fight. This can avoid serious fights. Dogs that play will only bite lightly and leave the certain spot where he is biting after just a few seconds. Dogs that really fight will open flesh. Also take notice when one of the dogs seem to want to leave and not play any more and when they start to growl with irritation this is when they should stop. Dogs wanting to play lays down in the down ward dog position. This is when they put their front paws down on the ground with their hind legs up wards, tails can wag and they can jump around excited and make friendly barking sounds.

Male dogs cause up to 90% of gender fights, but male dogs sort out their problems much more quickly then female dogs. Females that are spayed can be more aggressive because they have more testosterone, but an intact female is like a woman that has pms. An intact female goes through that same hormonal stages, irritability and feeling down.

Some breeds are more prone to fight because of their genetic make-up. How you raise these dogs and socialize them can make a vast difference in their temperament.

Idiopathic aggression they say is caused by a brain dysfunction. This is usually seen in larger breeds. These dogs will suddenly attack and then minutes later be the sweetest dog and seem to have totally forgotten about the attack. These dogs should not be used to breed.

Learned aggression is usually caused by humans. These dogs can use aggression because it works to achieve what they want. It can be that the pups were bullied. Or dogs that use aggression to survive.

Not socializing a dog can cause aggression problems. If a dog is only used to being with an older lady, he might not be able to know how to handle kids and or men or other dogs. This can go two ways; either being scared and pancake or being aggressive to wards the other dog or human. Know that this is not true aggression, but unwanted dog behavior from a dog that is uncertain and scared.

Training dogs to be aggressive can be given on cue when a dog is trained as a police dog or for security purposes.

Ageing dogs can tend to be aggressive. This goes hand in hand with sickness and pain as they are scared that they will be hurt and because their senses of hearing and sight can be less accurate. This can cause a dog to get frightened and react accordingly.

Metabolic disturbances can occur with low blood sugar that could be caused due to hunger. This shifts the testosterone and can cause aggression.

Displaced aggression can be caused by two dogs that run to a gate barking at a stranger or dog passing. Because of the gate constricting them to not be able to reach out to the stranger. They turn to each other out of frustration and miss place the aggression.

Louise Basson is the author and web master of http://www.dog-care-centre.com She also runs a dog day care centre and kennel for dogs. This is a specialized facility for only a few dogs to insure optimum care.

She specializes in Alaskan Huskies and has been to Alaska to learn more about the breed and the dog powered sport called mushing. Louise also is currently busy with Ethology-dog behaviour training course. She also distributes mushing gear and dog care centre dog gear and treats. Louise Basson is a part of Siberian Husky Rescue Gauteng to help foster and re home Huskies in the Western Cape.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Louise_Basson

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What to Do When Your Dog Won't Eat

By Susi Szeremy

Your dog won't eat. Or your cat is a picky eater. So what on earth do you do?

First, a caveat. No animal will willingly starve itself. But ALWAYS have your pet seen by a vet when there's a change in behavior. You need to rule out illness before embarking on solving a pet's eating problem. Be sure to check for a bad tooth as this is often overlooked as a cause of eating issues. The second caveat: Eating problems can be complex and the tips offered here are simplistic. I offer them with 30 years of experience as a dog owner, breeder, handler and fancier in the world of dogs, but you should discuss them with your vet to see if any are a plausible remedy for your pet's situation.

We'll start with dogs, and assuming that your dog is healthy but not a good eater, here are some potential reasons why and ideas for fixing it.

If you feed your dog treats during the day, stop. You want your dog hungry at meal times.If your dog is a show dog, remember that bait should be offered in TINY pieces, it's not meant to be dinner. When it comes to meals, put the dog's food bowl on the floor, give her 10 minutes to eat it, and if it isn't touched, pick it up and put it away. Don't feed again until the next meal, and resist the temptation to give treats. Do this for a whole week because what you're doing here is behavior modification. Remember, a healthy dog won't starve itself to death, but a stubborn, healthy dog could modify YOUR behavior if you cave in.

If you change pet foods frequently, stop. Frequent diet changes can create a finicky eater. The dog learns to "holdout" to see what will be offered next. When you find a nutritious diet your pet will eat, stay with it. If you MUST change the pet's diet, do it gradually over a two week period. Add a small amount of the new diet to the old food, and each day, increase the amount of the new feed while decreasing the amount of the current food. This gradual change will help prevent diarrhea, vomiting and finicky eating.

With picky eaters, it's important to feed a "super premium" brand of dog food. These foods cost a little more and are made with better ingredients, but they are nutritionally dense. This means that your dog is actually eating less in quantity than the cheaper brands bought at grocery stores (these foods have the nutritional value of bark), but because there are more "calories per cup" in a premium food, they're actually getting more nutrition. Look for brands such as Merrick's "Grammy's Pot Pie" (canned food), California Natural, Prarie, Canidae, Flint River, Nutro, Wellness, Eagle Pack Holistic or Nutrisource.

Mixing kibble with a small amount of canned dog food and water will also make it enticing. This next part is important: The single most natural way to increase a pet's appetite is to warm their food because it increases the smell and makes it more appetizing.

Perhaps your dog has a health issue or is on a medication that makes him not want to eat. She's under a vet's care, but the task of getting nutrition into her falls on you. Now what? First, understand that the less a dog eats, the less he WANTS to eat. Add to that the dog who comes to associate food with nausea and you have a real problem, so the sooner you can get your dog to WANT to eat on his own, the better. So much for the obvious.

We'll start with the simplest remedies and work our way up to a radical solution that worked for one of my dogs. Assuming that your dog is on a high quality feed but still not eating, you may need to go to the next step: making dog food taste even better.

You don't want to make these next foods a daily staple, mostly because the high sodium content of many of them would be contra-indicated for dogs in renal failure or with heart issues (if your dog does have kidney issues, check out a really informative web site here.) The following foods have been tried and tested by people in the dog fancy and are suggested ONLY as a means to jump start the appetite in a sick or compromised dog: Sardines, canned cat food, Gerber's baby food - especially turkey or sweet potato, braunschweiger, Limburger Cheese, broth, pureed liver, Dinty Moore Beef Stew, yogurt, cottage cheese/cream cheese, canned mackerel, scrambled eggs with cream cheese, chicken noodle soup - and even this one: hard-boiled eggs smashed up in French Vanilla yogurt, slightly warmed.

Sometimes, you may need to "jump start" an appetite with something so enticing, it's irresistible. Here is the original recipe for "Satin Balls," one of the most requested recipes on Wellpet, Showdogs-L, VetMed, and other popular e-mail lists for serious dog people:

10 pounds of cheap hamburger meat

1 lg. box of Total cereal

1 lg. box oatmeal

1 jar of wheat germ

1 1/4 cup veg oil

1 1/4 cup of unsulfured molasses

10 raw eggs AND shells

10 envelopes of unflavored gelatin

pinch of salt

Mix all ingredients together, much like you would a meatloaf. Divide the batch into 10 quart freezer bags and freeze.Thaw as needed and feed raw! (This is also a good way to put weight on a skinny dog, increase energy, and to alleviate itchy, flaky skin). This isn't a substitute for meals, it's meant to whet a dog's appetite. If the dog is eating this eagerly, start mixing it with kibble gradually. The idea is to wean them off the Satin Balls and onto kibble.

Next, we move on to "fixes" that come in a tube or pill. Remember that the point of these products is to stimulate an appetite and are not long term solutions; We start with Re-Vita whose products are said to be effective for problem appetites; "Pet-Tinic" is a liquid dietary supplement containing iron, copper and 5 essential vitamins. The palable meat-flavored liquid is readily accepted and one "tester" reported that it brought back her pet's appetite almost immediately, Because of its contents, you'll want to have your vet's approval before using this. "Nutri-Cal" is pure nutrition that squeezes out like toothpaste; dogs like its taste and it's a quick way to get nutrition into a dog. When diluted with water, Dyne High Calorie Dietary Supplement can be used to combat dehydration and provide energy because each ounce provides approximately 150 calories containing vitamins and minerals that maintain constant therapeutic blood levels.

If none of the aforementioned tips work, this is where I get pretty serious because my own philosophy is that a lack of appetite is a lousy reason for a dog to die. What you'll read next isn't pleasant - but if you love your dog, you have to get nutrition into her. As far as I know,there are four ways to do this when the dog can't eat on his own: syringe food into the dog's mouth, stuff food down the dog's throat, hook the dog up to an IV, or insert a stomach tube. I've done all of them at one time or another. And they all stink, but they're preferable to the alternative: a dog who wastes away and dies.

Syringing: You'll need a couple of large syringes from your vet. Using canned food; determine the amount your dog needs to sustain his weight, divide that amount in half and spoon that much into a blender (you and this blender will become inseparable over the coming days). Add enough warm water to blend easily into a very fine puree and for each meal, gently syringe the puree into the side of the dog's lips. Or, you can cut to the chase. Pry the dog's mouth open and squeeze the syringe plunger down so that the food trickles to the side and back of the dog's mouth. It takes a bit of time to get the hang of this since you don't want the dog to aspirate food into his lungs. Speak to the dog soothingly and praise him when you're done. Remember, it's not the dog's fault he's unable to eat and it's only temporary until the appetite comes back.

Stuffing: This was my least favorite means of getting food into a dog. It was messy and degrading. In a nutshell, you make "food bombs" that are narrow enough to slide down the back of the dog's throat. These "bombs" are a mixture of wet & dry food that's been pureed into a texture that allows shaping. There are folks out there who are really good at doing this - and some dogs who just don't eat well become so used to eating this way that they'll stand calmly, lift up their little heads and open their mouths like guppies in anticipation for the next "bomb." Since all we care about is getting nutrition into the dog, if this works for you,that's what counts.

IV: A "no brainer." At this point, a dog is so ill that this is pretty much the last resort. It's no substitute for the calories gotten from real food, but sometimes it serves as a band-aid until the dog is back on its feet and able to eat the real thing.

Stomach tube: Proverbially speaking, this is what separates the men from the boys. When I was faced with a dog whose heart medication caused anorexia but who was otherwise healthy, I had but little choice to pull out all the stops. Syringe feeding, food bombs - these were not long term solutions. Guided by my vet, we made an informed decision to insert a stomach tube. Mind you, at the time we thought it would be a short term fix until my dog ate on his own. Keep reading.

The first tube put in was an ugly, brown rubber tube that was SO long, it had to be wrapped around my dog's mid section and secured with a lady's tube top when not in use. I prepared the food as if I was going to syringe it into my dog's mouth, only it was syringed into a tube that had been inserted into his side over the stomach. In less than a week, the dog knew the sound of the blender, knew what was coming and would lie down on his side in preparation for his meal.

Each day before I approached the blender, I always offered the dog his meal in a bowl since it was my fondest desire that the dog eat like a dog. After many weeks, however, I knew this wasn't going to happen. Ever. At this point, my vet and I had a frank discussion about options and he mentioned a permanent tube, one inserted from the inside out. The "Bard" was a gastronomy device made of silicon that was successfully used to feed disabled children but had never been used in canines. My nearly 14 year old Puli would be the first dog to have the slick silicon "button" inserted. It fit flush against his stomach and a little "lid" flicked open like the flip-top portion of a tube of toothpaste. Compared to what I had been working with, it was a Porsche compared to an Edsel and no one else ever knew it was there.

The tube enabled my dog to live a couple of more years. Feeding him took less than five minutes and afterwards, he would run with the other dogs,bark into the wind, enjoy the sun on his back and know that I adored him. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Because of the seemingly radical step we took to ensure this dog's survival, it wasn't something I discussed openly. Too many people out there feel that if a dog can't eat on his own, he's not meant to live. To them I say, "Phooey." The dog wanted to live, to survive and feel the hand of those who loved him rubbing his ears. But he couldn't eat. His spirit was willing and he would have done anything to please me, but this one thing he couldn't do. How then, was I to deny him the one thing I could do to help him?

Cats: Needless to say, cats are not like dogs. They can get liver damage from not eating even for just a day or two. When a cat stops eating, their body will start to use its fat stores as fuel. The old fat stores are mobilized to the liver, which should begin fat burning. But when the fat arrives at the liver, the liver doesn't burn the fat efficiently and it accumulates in the liver.

The resulting liver disorder is known as "hepatic lipidosis", or "fatty liver disease." This condition may be suggested when blood tests show impaired liver function. Getting fatty liver disease is not isolated only to cats, and fasting cats don't always get this condition, they just seem more prone to it when they don't eat.

But according to the Cornell Online Consultant, there are 454 more possible Diagnoses for Feline Anorexia. Wow. A good web site you can visit here explains the different reasons a cat might not be eating, from acid stomach to ulcers and including fatty liver disease. The bottom line, however,is that you have less "wiggle room" when a cat won't eat. Tries these tips:

-Warm the food because warmed food has a stronger smell which will make a cat want to eat.

-Handfeeding: Sit with your cat and talk to her. Offer a little piece of food to her.

-Offer special treats like canned or pouched food instead of dry kibble.

-Offer tuna and cheese or milk or cream, all in small amounts.

-Tasty liquids, like water from tuna packed in water or, rarely, oil. Avoid tuna packed in vegetable broth as itmay contain onions. Try clam juice or low-salt chicken broth. Avoid onions and anything made with bouillan as it's too salty;

-Sprinkle some catnip on the food.

Pull out all the stops and make some Home Made Cat Food with this recipe:

Switch off the protein sources with each batch or two. Switch between:

- Half Pound of minced boneless chicken breast or thigh

- Six Ounces of dark-mean ground turkey or minced turkey

- Half Pound of lean, minced beef

- Half Pound of minced beef, chicken or turkey heart. About three times a week, include one chopped hard-boiled or scrambled egg. Occasionally substitute a five-ounce can of salmon or tuna for the meat. Avoid canned salmon or tuna for cats that are prone to urinary tract infections.

Mix foods together.

There are some drugs that can help stimulate a cat's appetite including Diazepam (Valium). Other drugs to ask your vet about are Periactin (generic name Cyproheptadine), Serax (generic name Oxazepam) and Dalmane (generic name Flurazepam). All have potential side effects so it's important to talk with your vet.

Syringe feeding and feeding tubes as mentioned in the section for dogs is also an option for cats.

Good luck and know that you're not alone. Feeding issues are among the most frustrating of concerns.

S.E. Szeremy is a writer, breeder/owner/handler of Pulik and creator of [http://www.KnobNots.com], the friendly alternative to "Beware of Dog" Signs that won't make your pet sound vicious: Transform a door into a safety billboard for people and pets.

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Finding and Hiring a Dog Walker

By James T Phillips

If you work more than 6 hours a day and own a dog, you need a dog walker!

Urban life can be hard for dogs. Many of us keep pets in cramped city apartments and work long hours, resulting in a dogs life which is a far cry from that of a rural or suburban dog who usually has an outside yard to roam during the day -- or if they're really lucky, acres of open land in which to frolic.

Yet there is no reason why a city dog cannot enjoy a fantastic quality of life. Living in the city has its disadvantages but also brings with it levels of stimulation -- sights, sounds and smells -- which suburban or rural dogs never get to experience. City dogs are also also blessed with far more social opportunities, whether they be with other dogs on the street or with a pack of their buddies at the local dog park or dog run.

But many owners work long hours and enjoy active social lives, meaning long periods in which their pets are alone. For a dog, this means hours of inactivity -- especially in a small apartment or studio which has little space to play or run.

For this reason, most urban dog owners hire a dog walker. Having someone take your dog out for exercise and relief at least once a day makes all the difference. It breaks up those long solitary hours and gives your dog a chance to get out into the fresh air, stretch their legs and burn off some of the calories they have ingested for breakfast. For many dogs, their daytime dog walker is their daytime buddy.

But with the profession of dog walking becoming more and more popular, there are increasing numbers of dog walkers to choose from in cities. Dog walking and pet sitting services are springing up everywhere and in most cities dog owners are spoiled for choice. Yet all dog walking services are not the same -- there are differences in quality and type of services provided. Here are some tips for choosing the right dog walker for you:

• 
  Make sure you know exactly what you want before you start looking
  
  It's important to be clear about the kind of service you want. A large, established dog walking service is likely to provide peace of mind and more security, but if they're too big you may find their services a little too impersonal -- some guarantee the same walker every day, but some don't. If you want your walker and your dog to build a friendly, trusting relationship, it's worth asking about this. A good dog walking service will assign a regular dog walker to your dog and inform you of any changes in staffing well ahead of time. The downside is that they may be slightly less flexible with scheduling.
  
  On the other hand, a local independent dog walker who works alone is almost guaranteed to build a close relationship with your dog and you are likely to build a friendly relationship with them yourself, which brings familiarity and peace of mind. The disadvantage is that lone walkers rarely have anyone to provide a back up should they become sick or take a vacation.
• 
  Establish an ideal schedule, then be prepared to compromise
  
  Let's face it, the vast majority of dog owners would prefer their dog to be walked around the middle of the day, which generally means between 11am and 3pm in the dog walking business. This means that midday time slots are in great demand and it's unlikely that you'll find someone who can promise your ideal schedule. Be prepared to compromise with a leeway of around an hour either side of your ideal. Additionally, even when you settle on a time you should be aware that dog walking is a profession the nature of which means it is almost impossible to stick to a schedule 100% accurately every day. Walkers often have to travel between dogs and can be held up by a million and one different situations. Don't be too disappointed if your dog walker arrives a little early or late every day -- most of the time it cannot be helped. Be suspicious of any dog walking service that promises punctuality to the minute -- most of the time they're not being honest with you!
• 
  Dog walking in packs or individually?
  
  This is where opinion is split firmly down the middle! It's a common sight in urban centers like New York City to see pack walkers with up to twelve dogs at a time -- but is this really what you want for your dog? The advantage to this kind of service is primarily price -- pack walk rates are sometimes half the price of individual or small group walks and sometimes last longer. On the negative side, your dog will not receive anywhere near the same level of attention it would in a smaller group or alone -- and often much of the walk is spent sitting tied up in large groups on the sidewalk as the dog walker takes a dog upstairs to its apartment. There is no doubt that there is a strong social aspect to such walks which many dogs enjoy, but for the most part the majority of dog owners prefer their dogs to be walked in smaller packs or alone. Many people also worry about dogs fighting in large packs and while this is rare, it does sometimes happen.
  
  An individual, private walk brings with it the walkers undivided attention, but you should also consider that most dogs appreciate some kind of socialization -- so consider choosing a service which walks pairs or small groups of no more than three. Many dog walkers will tell you that dogs who have behavioral "issues" on the street with their owners benefit greatly from being walked with another dog, whose presence often acts to "center" the other dog and induce a good level of focus and attention. However, there is no avoiding the fact that some dogs just will not abide the company of other dogs no matter what! At the end of the day you know your own dog better than anyone and the decision is entirely yours to make.
• 
  Conduct interviews in person
  
  Choosing a dog walker is an important decision to make, not least because you're entrusting the welfare of your precious pet to a stranger but also because the service entails allowing someone access to your apartment on a daily basis. For this reason, you should always look into a number of services and insist on meeting first the business owner, then should you decide to go ahead and use the service, the walker who will be assigned to your dog. A good service will allow you to meet the walker at no cost to yourself. Never feel pressured into agreeing to a schedule over the telephone -- you'll feel much better when you know who you're dealing with personally. All good dog walking services appreciate that you're looking around and shopping for a service and will be happy to submit their pitch to compete with others.
  
  Don't be surprised or feel offended if the business owner will not give you full contact details of the walker however -- they're not trying to put one over on you. It's standard practice in the business to insist that the client conduct all communication (schedule changes, updates etc) through the business owner themselves. This ensures that the owner is kept "in the loop" and is always aware of what's going on. If you do have the walkers contact details however, it is always good practice to notify the owner of all communication between you to prevent misunderstandings or confusion later.
• 
  Have questions prepared in advance
  
  Before you conduct an interview, make sure you have everything you're going to ask written down and prepared beforehand. Ask as many questions as you need to feel comfortable. Don't be afraid to bombard the business owner or walker with requests for information regarding the nature of their service, their philosophy, their practices, their policy and their history. A good dog walking service will also ask you questions about exactly what you want, your likes and dislikes -- and most of all, your dog. Make sure they ask you about your dogs nature and about health issues which may be relevant. If they take notes, that's a good thing! A good dog walking service will keep information about your dog on file, including medical history, favorite treats, command words, things to watch out for, vets information etc. If they don't seem interested in any of this information then it's probably a good idea to choose another service.
  
  Be sure to get everything out in the open regarding prices and fees. Make certain you're both on the same page regarding rates and frequency of payment, about any hidden or supplementary fees (many dog walking services have a surcharge for early morning, evening and weekend walks), about their range of availability (do they cover evenings or weekends?) and about their policy regarding cancellations (most services request that you give 24 hours notice to avoid being charged). The last thing you want is to spoil a good relationship with a reliable dog walking service due to a misunderstanding later which should have been cleared up at the beginning.
  
• 
  Insist on seeing the walker on a trial walk
  
  It's very important that your dog walker both meets the dog beforehand -- and seeing them "in action" with your dog will give you great peace of mind. Not all dog walkers are the same! Some people have a natural affinity with animals and you will see this upon observing dog walker and dog together. Dogs usually have great judgment when it comes to humans and if the walker loves dogs, you'll see it in the way your dog reacts to them. Seeing them walking together on the street is important and you should check to see that they have adequate control skills and that they hold the leash securely. If the walker grips the leash halfheartedly with three fingers and allows your dog to run around in circles, give them a miss! The safety and well being of your dog comes first and foremost. It's also a good idea to see how they handle situations with other dogs in the street -- a good walker will ask the other owner whether their dog is friendly, and allow your dog to approach cautiously should they wish to sniff each other. Additionally, make sure they pick up after your dog and don't allow them to spray inappropriate things like cars, doors -- and especially lampposts which may carry live current!
• 
  Establish acceptable dog walking routes from the start
  
  It's important that you let your walker know exactly where you do and don't find acceptable for your dog to go. If there is a dog park or run nearby, let your walker know whether or not you're happy with them taking your dog there during the day. Many owners prefer that their dogs are taken to a run where they can play with other dogs, but only you know whether or not your dog is suitable for this kind of socialization. Some walkers like to take a bunch of dogs to the run and spend the next hour sitting down watching them play -- if you would prefer a more disciplined kind of street walk then make this clear from the start.
• 
  Ask for references and make sure they're insured and bonded
  
  Every good dog walking service can supply you with references -- other owners who have used their services regularly and are happy. Get the references, and call them! You'll feel so much better in the long run. It's also a good idea to ask whether they're insured and bonded and if so, to let you see their insurance certificates. Their insurance should cover both medical bills should anything happen to your dog in their care, but also liability costs should your dog ever injure someone on the street or cause an accident. Dog walkers rarely have to use their insurance but you'll feel a lot better knowing it's there. The fact that they have taken the trouble to get insured is also a good sign that they take the business seriously and are in it for the duration!
• 
  If you're worried about allowing someone access to your apartment, set up a web camera!
  
  This is a controversial issue with many dog walking services, but more and more home service providers are beginning to accept that home owners feel secure having a small web camera set up to make sure that nothing untoward happens while they're at work. It's also great to be able to see what your dog gets up to during the day! If you are going to set up a camera then it's common decency to inform your walker first. Tell them that you have the camera so that you can watch the dog while you're at work and try not to emphasize the part about checking up on them! Most dog walkers will be fine with this and if they are not -- well, perhaps it's time to seek out someone new.
• 
  Relax!
  
  Nobody finds choosing a dog walker easy. It's very common for first time owners to worry themselves half to death for the first few weeks wondering if their dog is OK and that everything is going well. However, if you have followed the steps above and taken the time to choose the walker you're happiest with, you'll find that your worry subsides after a couple of weeks and you can get down to the business of going about your day and taking for granted that your dog is in good hands. Do your best to build a friendly relationship with your dog walking service -- you'll feel so much better in the long run. Remember -- if they're dog lovers, they're going to end up building an attachment to your dog which rivals yours. This is also worth thinking about should you ever wish to discontinue a long running relationship -- make sure you give the walker a chance to say "goodbye" to your dog and don't be surprised if they request photos and even shed a few tears on their last walk together!

So where to start looking? There are plenty of ways to find a dog walker:

• Check online via a search engine
• Check online via local classified listings like "Craigslist"
• Ask at pet stores and vets offices for the business cards of local services
• Check notice boards in pet stores
• Ask other dog owners, or stop walkers on the street
• Ask at your local dog run or dog park
• Ask in doorman apartment buildings for the names of reputable neighborhood walkers and services

All in all, finding a suitable dog walker for your beloved is not something to be taken lightly -- although nor should it be something to overly stress about. At the end of the day, just remember that whatever your opinion of your walker, the most important opinion is that of your dog! A good dog walking service will leave your dog exercised, relieved and above all safe and happy -- something which you'll be able to judge for yourself as soon as you walk through the front door.

King Pup provides professional NYC Dog Walkers in Manhattan. Visit our website for more information about city dog walking.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=James_T_Phillips

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Dog Breeds - Of Hybrids, Mutts And Purebred Dogs

By Kayyne Nynne

Ever noticed the sniffy hauteur with which purebred dog owners appraise mixed breed dogs? You can almost see them flinch as their condescending eye roves across the form of the objectionable mutt while they grudgingly concede that perhaps their refined canine specimen and that pollutant mutt do indeed belong to the same species! In fact you need only trawl various online dog forums to experience firsthand just how contentious the issue of mutt versus purebred really is. Yet much as purebred dog owners may put down the humble mutt or mixed breed dog the strange thing is:

Purebred Dogs Are Merely Strain-Refined Mutts!

Doberman Pinscher: The Doberman Pinscher dog breed was the brainchild of door-to-door tax collector Herr Louis Doberman. Whether Herr Doberman developed this dog breed as enforcer or protector has never been truly established but one aspect that is not in contention is the fact that his was an unenviable profession! It is well documented that since biblical times the tax collector has been much reviled; even today the tax collector is the subject of scorn and disgust. If you truly want to belabor the point, the next time you are at a social gathering, casually mention that you work for the IRS and watch the little-witnessed phenomenon of how so many can disappear so quickly!

However back to Herr Doberman and his dangerous profession; tired of being pushed about and quite possibly being set upon by irate tax payers, poor Herr Doberman came up with the novel yet economic solution of developing a dog breed that would be both enforcer and protector! The "ingredients" for his new dog breed included the following: Rottweiler; German Pinscher; Greyhound and the Manchester Terrier. Though some wishful fanciers contend that the German Shepherd dog was also involved in the genetic compilation of the Doberman Pinscher, this is highly unlikely since the development of the German Shepherd occurred a little later than that of the Doberman Pinscher.

The early form of the Doberman Pinscher dog was not the sleek lean machine that epitomizes the breed today, but it was a heavier-boned dog somewhat more similar in appearance to the Rottweiler dog breed. Subsequent tweaks by later breeders eventually resulted with the sleek contemporary dog that defines the modern Doberman Pinscher. The point of note here is that the Doberman Pinscher, a well-known dog breed that is officially recognized by countless of International Kennels such as the AKC, was a crossbreed developed from various other dog breeds before it attained the holy-grail status of purebred!

Verdict: The Doberman Pinscher, like all the other so-called purebred dogs is nothing more than a strain refined mutt. Sniff! What can I say...these pesky mongrels are everywhere, most of them disguising themselves as well-established purebreds!

Designer/Hybrid Dogs

Though the Labradoodle is widely accredited as the crossbreed dog that set the whole designer-dog movement rolling along at a good clip, the truth of the matter is that other well established crossbreeds already existed. One such crossbreed or so-called designer dog is the Cockerpoo (Cockapoo), a cross between the American Cocker Spaniel and a Miniature Poodle. The Cockerpoo has been in existence since the 1960s (in contrast to the Labradoodle which was developed in the 1980s). The Cockerpoo is currently so well established in North America that there is a strong movement to consolidate a breeding standard.

These days "Oodles" or "Poos" (Poodle hybrids) are practically everywhere in North America for the simple reason they translate into mega bucks. Though the Labradoodle (perhaps the best known Poodle derivative) was developed with a utilitarian purpose in mind, most designer dogs have no other function than to propel a burgeoning and lucrative market for these hybrid dogs; as it so happens, backyard breeders very quickly recognized the enormous profits to be had from designer dogs.

To date the designer dog market is flourishing, strong evidence that people are quite willing to shell out mega bucks so as to differentiate themselves from the rest of the crowd. And perhaps you've noticed, nobody refers to these mutts as well...mutts, for the simple reason crossbreeds do not satisfy people's sniff factor! (Sniff Factor defines the human tendency to snobbishness; in earlier times the upper classes were predisposed to strolling about with their noses pointed skywards as an expression of their obvious class superiority (as though reaching for air unpolluted by the masses!) Calling a mongrel a designer dog is certain to guarantee a far better price than if the animal were addressed as a crossbreed.

The unfortunate fallout of this whole designer dog issue, is that there're now many more dogs in shelters and rescues, as well as dogs being euthanized, because of unethical breeders, who without regard to genetics, breed thousands of these dogs every year in a bid to capitalize on the public's ignorance and insatiable appetite for "exclusive" or "limited" dogs.

So how did this designer dog brouhaha really begin?

Good Intentions Open Pandora's Box

Sometime during the 1980s, Wally Conron, the breeding manager for the Royal Guide Dog Association of Australia embarked on a quest to develop a non-allergenic guide dog for a visually impaired client whose husband happened to be allergic to common dog fur. Conron settled on the standard Poodle as the ideal cross with the already established Labradors in use at their center, for the simple fact that the Poodle,s as a highly trainable working dog with tightly curled coat, constituted a the best-fit match.

After two years of trials including 33 successive disappointment runs, Wally Conron hit pay dirt! A cross mating between one of their most prized Labradors and a Poodle specimen resulted in a litter of 3 non-allergenic puppies. Sultan the 1st ever Labradoodle destined for guide-dog greatness was introduced to his new owner amidst great fanfare. The bonding was a great success and Conron was confident that the remaining two puppies would quickly be snapped up; after all, the center at which he worked had a 6-month backlog of requests from people hoping to foster a dog. But he miscalculated; nobody it seemed wanted a dog that was associated with the dirty word crossbreed.

As eight weeks rolled by, the remaining two pups still hadn't found homes and the critical-period window in which they needed to bond with a new owner and thus become successful guide dogs was closing fast. Out of sheer frustration Wally Conron decided to call his new dog breed the Labradoodle and thenceforth stopped referring to them as crossbreeds. That was the eureka moment he had been waiting for (evidence of the sniff factor in play again)!

Within weeks, requests for this new "miracle dog" inundated the center...the rest as the saying goes, was history! Other than the Labradoodle, few designer dogs have been developed for utilitarian purposes and in fact for the most part new breeds are introduced for purely cosmetic purposes. Having said that though, it would be remiss not to acknowledge the fact that some new dog breeds are currently being developed to address the all pervasive problem of genetic disease in the canine; especially in the more popular breeds.

Some other well-established crossbreeds are the Bull Boxer which is a cross between the Boxer and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. The Bull Boxer is said to be a more affable dog, especially towards other pets, than the Staffordshire Bull Terrier and is also reputed to be less inclined to exhibit the immature behaviorisms characteristic of the Boxer. By and large though, the substantial prevalence of the designer-dog set is to be found firmly within the realm of Poodle mixes. Such Poodle mixes usually go by names, which if not exactly flattering, are to say the least, colorful:

1. Doxiepoo (Dachshund Poodle Mix)

2. Papipoo (Papillon Poodle Mix)

3. Goldendoodle (Golden Retriever Poodle Mix)

4. Jack-A-Poo (Jack Russell Terrier Poodle Mix)

5. Irish Doodle (Irish Setter Poodle Mix) to name but a few.

Verdict: Sniff! These dogs may go under the guise of designer dog...but let's be honest, they are no more than glorified mutts!

The Humble Yet Ubiquitous Mutt

So where does the lowly mutt fit in this picture of brave new doggy world; that is to say, other than bearing the brunt of the purebred afficionado's scorn! Well as I have amply illustrated in the paragraphs above, all dog breeds are essentially mixed breeds even the purebreds. Purebred dogs are so entitled because over several generations they have been specifically bred for selective traits. But therein lies their Achilles' heel or weakness. Due to such selective-trait breeding, purebred dogs have an inherently high prevalence of genetic disease.

A classic example illustrating some of the problems encountered in trait-selective breeding can be found in the history of the Dalmatian. Breeding for the sharply-defined spot trait unintentionally also led to selective breeding for an abnormal uric acid gene (case of gene linkage). The result was that the Dalmatian dog breed was dogged (no pun intended) with hereditary urine stone disease. In an attempt to rectify the problem yet retain the desired spot pattern, the Dalmatian was crossbred with various Pointer breeds (Sniff! Sniff! What did I tell you...all mutts the lot of them!).

Conversely the lack of trait-selective breeding and a diverse gene pool in the mutt makes such dogs so much healthier and more robust than their purebred counterparts! Thus unless you're going to develop your own dog breed, if all you're looking for in a dog is a pet, do yourself, your pocket as well as the millions of dogs on death row a favor and adopt a dog from a shelter! Trust me, they make excellent pets. (Shelters cannot house dogs forever and each year more than 7,000,000 cats and dogs are euthanized!)

Verdict: Hmmm...the lowly mutt. At last! A dog without pretensions!

Dog Breeds

Kayye Nynne is the webmaster of http://www.dog-breeds-spot.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kayyne_Nynne

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How to Care for a Skunk Sprayed Dog

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Has your dog been sprayed or been near a skunk? Don't let this pup stink up your house! Try the following solution to get your dog smelling clean in no time.

Steps

1. Do not run water over your dog. This only increases the stink, and if the dog has dry, or cracked skin, the spray can get into his or her skin, and cause burning. This also can lead to skin problems later.
   
2. Mix about 3/4 of a big bottle of hydrogen peroxide with about 3-6 tablespoons of baking soda. This is for a small dog. For a medium sized dog, use twice as much, and 3 times as much for a big dog.
   
3. Scrub the solution gently all over your dog. Do not leave in solution for more than 5 minutes. If so this may cause damage to the animal's fur, the texture may be affected as well as the color. It is advisable to use disposable gloves because dry or cracked skin may cause burring. If you do this outside, your house won't stink as much, and it would be better for everyone.
   
4. If stinking persists, make some more of the solution, or call your vet for other ideas.
   
5. You can also try a very effective product recommended to me by my veterinarian “DoggiCLEEN Skunk Spray”. This simple formula gets rid of skunk odor on dogs very effectively without harsh chemicals or costly veterinarian bills.
   
6. Try to keep your dog in the backyard, if you are missing a fence or have a swimming pool, try to keep him or her in the basement (in his or her cage) or a room that you don't usually use.
   

Tips

• If your house was in close proximity to the spray (i.e. the skunk sprayed on the porch or under the foundation), an effective way to remove the odor indoors (and bring back some of your sanity) is to use one or several "air ionizers" which release ozone, but PLEASE NOTE: the EPA recognizes breathing ionized air is harmful to humans and animals, so only cleanse the house with it at times when the premises are vacated
  
• A safer solution is "Biocide Systems’ Skunk 911 Home Kit and Skunk 911 Rescue Kit". They remove the skunk odor – not mask it and are affordable, non-invasive and eco-friendly.
  
• Simply "sniffing for a skunk" is not always an accurate way of determining whether there is one in the vicinity of your house or not, since you may be dealing with one that is "undiffused" (would you navigate a minefield by saying, "There's no craters here, so it must be safe to take a step!")
  
• Skunks seek human garbage (just like those animals in "Over the Hedge"), so it would be a good idea to use garbage cans with tightly fitting lids to help prevent such tempting odors from calling to skunks and other animals.
  
• Some people report that skunks like to dig in their soft garden dirt for delicious worms and grubs, but that planting a hedge of marigolds around the perimeter discourages this behavior
  
• Put some "live traps" out or buy some Coyote pee, and put it on a cotton pad and place around the perimeter of your property. This not only keeps skunks out, but raccoons as well as possums.
  
• If you do put a trap out, you can call the county animal shelter to come pick up the trap with the skunk.
  
• Also, if the above mixture does not work well, try washing your dog in tomato juice and rinsing well.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to De Skunk Your Pet
  
• How to Get a Skunk to Leave
  
• How to Give a Small Dog a Bath
  
• How to Give Your Large Dog a Bath
  
• How to Have Fun Giving Your Dog a Flea Bath
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Care for a Skunk Sprayed Dog. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

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How To Groom Your Dog At Home

By Ken Mathie

Well groomed dogs are much healthier than those who are not regularly groomed. Matted or knotted hair can lead to yeast infections, periodontal disease can result from neglected teeth, and ear infections are common in dogs who are not groomed as well. The tips in this article will tell you how to groom your dog at home to keep him healthy, clean, and easy to care for.

Before you get started grooming your dog, make sure you have all the supplies that you will need. Gather items for cleaning your dog's eyes and ears, nail trimmers, as well as hair trimmers or scissors, and teeth and mouth cleaning tools. You will also need shampoo, a heavy towel, and tools to brush your dog's fur.

The first step in grooming your dog is to brush him very thoroughly. Be sure to untangle any knots or matted sections of hair because these will be nearly impossible to remove after they're wet. Use a quality dog brush that will free loose hair and dirt and that will distribute the oils thought your dog's coat. If your dog has short hair, brush out his coat with a glove or curry brush. If your dog has longer hair, you may need a durable pin brush or a slicker, or even an undercoat rake. If you find any mats that can't be removed by brushing, use a trimmer to cut it away. Matted hair that is left unattended can allow bacteria to grow on the skin, resulting in a yeast infection.

To save time and effort, you should take care of any trimming before giving your dog a bath. If you will be cutting away any large sections of your dog's hair, it would simply be a waste of time, energy, and shampoo to wash them first!

Next, you should clean your dog's eyes. The amount of maintenance your dog's eyes require will depend on the type of dog you have. Clean and healthy eyes should be clear with no evidence of irritation, discharge, or other complications. Carefully clean away any debris in the corners of the eyes with warm water. Dogs that are light in color or have long hair may need a special product that removes tear stains to clean their coats.

Cleaning your dog's ears is the next step in grooming. Most dogs do not like their ears being cleaned and your dog may be difficult to keep still. Put a small amount of ear cleaning solution on a cotton ball or small cloth and wipe the inside of your dog's ear to remove any wax or dirt that may have accumulated. Be very gentle so you don't irritate the sensitive skin inside the ear and avoid going to deep into the ear to prevent damage. Dab a few drops of rubbing alcohol into his ear to dry any water and to get rid of any ear mites or bacteria, then wipe the ear one last time with a dry cotton ball or swab. If you see anything unusual with your dog's ears, like irritation, swelling, or an odd odor, you should contact your veterinarian because it could be a sign of infection. Clean, healthy ears should not have an odor and should only contain a small amount of wax. Remember to warm any ear cleaning products, alcohol, or medications in room temperature water before using them inside your dog's ears.

Once you've brushed your dog and removed any matted hair and cleaned his eyes and ears, it is time to clean his teeth. Statistics show that only about 20% of dogs have healthy teeth and are not suffering from periodontal disease. A large buildup of tartar on your dog's teeth will be digested over time, causing problems with his liver and kidney. To avoid these problems, you should clean your dog's teeth at least twice a week.

You can brush your dog's teeth using a toothbrush or a piece of gauze over your fingertip. The Pets Tooth Brush is a specially designed glove with soft bristles on both the thumb and the forefinger. Most dogs are not too fond of having their teeth cleaned, but they typically prefer a human touch like this glove rather than a hard toothbrush. Whatever you use, it may take some time to get your dog comfortable with the process. There are also antimicrobial sprays, like the one made by Petzlife, that can easily be sprayed inside your dog's mouth to kill bacteria. Make sure you use teeth and mouth products made specifically for dogs to prevent accidental poisoning or illness.

If your dog will allow you to, you can use a standard dental scraper to gently remove tartar buildup from his teeth. Simply cleaning his mouth and teeth two to three times a week and giving him rawhide or frozen bones to gnaw on should be enough to keep his teeth clean and healthy. Again, remember to only use pet products in your dog's mouth. Human toothpaste is not made to be swallowed and could make your dog sick.

The last step of grooming you should do before bathing your dog is to attend to his nails. Neglected nails can create all sorts of painful problems. Nails that are too long can cause your dog to walk differently or curl into the bottom of his foot, or even lead to skeletal damage. Puppies or miniature breeds can have their nailed trimmed with regular nail clippers, but most dogs require clippers made specifically for dogs. Only trim a very small piece of the nail and repeat as often as necessary. Most dogs need their nails trimmed about once a week, but some breeds can go for a month before needing trimmed again. If you cut the nail too short and it starts to bleed, apply a small amount of corn starch or styptic powder to the area and hold pressure until the bleeding stops.

Now it is time to give your dog a bath. If your dog is nervous or apprehensive in the tub, you may need a special leash designed for use in the bath. These often feature suction cups to keep the dog restrained and your hands free to wash him. Remove your dog's collar before placing him in the tub and use a waterproof collar that won't damage your dog's coat or skin if you need a way to restrain him. Make sure your dog is completely dry before you put his collar back on to prevent sores around his neck. Wait about 12 hours.

It is best to wash your dog with running water, rather than filling the tub and washing him in dirty water, but many dogs are frightened by the sound of water. Work with your dog gently, without force, to get him accustomed to baths and remember to be patient because it may take time. Get your dog completely wet. An attachment hose for your shower head or bath faucet or even a pressurized spray nozzle on your outdoor hose will work well for most dogs. Again, remember to be patient with your dog if he is apprehensive.

You have already cleaned your dog's ears, eyes, and mouth, so you can start washing around his neck and then work your way down over the rest of his body. Use a shampoo appropriate for your dog and dilute it with a small amount of water. Diluting your dog shampoo will make it rinse easier without leaving soap residue behind. Work in small sections, applying a bit of the shampoo to your hand and working it into the dog's fur. If your dog has a thick coat, you can use a curry brush like the one available by Kong Zoom Groom to work the shampoo through. If you are bathing a dog with long hair, smooth the shampoo through the coat rather than brushing it in to avoid knots and unruly tangles. When you have finished washing your dog's body, carefully shampoo his head.

Rinse your dog completely before removing him from the water. Hot spots, or bald patches of skin that are itchy and uncomfortable, are caused by shampoo left in your dog's coat. Rinse him with clean, running water until the water runs clear of both soap and dirt.

Once your dog is rinsed well, you can get him out of the tub and dry him. Use a thick, soft towel to absorb most of the water and allow your dog to shake himself as well. Make sure you dry his feet very well to prevent fungus or bacteria from growing in his paws. If your dog has a short, easy to manage coat, you are finished grooming him.

Dogs with long hair, thick coats, and curly hair require a little more maintenance. If your dog has a lot of hair, you can use a blow dryer to speed up the drying process. Take care not to dry the hair completely with the appliance because you may cause damage to his skin. A brush, along with the blow dryer, can help keep long-haired dogs free of mats and tangles. Dogs with curly hair, like poodles, must be dried completely to keep their coats looking good.

ProudPup.com - Great deals on new and used dog supplies and accessories, training equipment, books, doggie health tips and more! Did you know that dogs have a genetic lifespan of 27 years? Find out how you can help your dog live well into it's teens or 20's. Download your copy of the Long Life Dog book by clicking this link: Proud Pup - Dog Supplies Cheap

Copyright 2007. Ken Mathie. Editor PMCezine...
You are free to reproduce this article as long as no changes are made, the author's name is retained and the link to our site URL remains active.

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