Preparing Your Dog For the Arrival of Your Child

By Mike Wombacher

Congratulations! You're pregnant and your "pack" will soon be growing. If you're like most people, you're caught between anticipation and trepidation. You're thrilled about the arrival of your new child and you're concerned about doing everything right. If you own a dog, certainly some of your concern revolves around him. You're probably asking yourself: "How will my dog handle this? Will he be jealous? Will he be careful?" And most importantly: "Is there any chance that he might bite my child?" If you're not concerned, you should be. Approximately 80% of dog bites happen to children under five.

If you're an expecting dog owner the very first thing that you should do is to identify the changes that need to be made in the life of your dog once the baby arrives and implement them NOW! You do not want your dog to associate any changes that need to be made in your relationship with the arrival of your child thus setting up a competitive or jealous dynamic. Not only that, but once your baby arrives you'll have precious little time or energy for dealing with any errant behavior on the part of your dog. All your attention will be on your baby where it should be. Failing to implement relevant changes in the life of your dog prior to baby's arrival is the single most common mistake expecting dog owners make. And keep in mind, things that you do not consider problematic now might become problematic with a child in your midst.

So take a careful look: is your dog sleeping in bed with you, pushy and demanding, barky, prone to steal things and get into mischief when you're not looking? If so, better deal with it now. Does he get tense when you try to take things away from him, touch him in certain ways, or get near his food? Does he pull on the leash, crash out the door or jump up on you to say hello? Again, you might tolerate such behaviors now but they will seriously compromise the quality of your life with a baby in tow. Such issues are relatively easy to deal with and in the book I have outlined simple steps to enable you to resolve them. More serious problems include over-protectiveness, separation anxiety (yes, your dog will need to learn to spend time alone and not as the center of your undivided attention once your baby arrives--no small feat for many dogs), and sensitivity to sudden and unpredictable movements.

These problems and many others that are addressed in the book are readily resolvable but the lynchpin of the successful resolution of any behavior problem is building the right relationship with your dog, a relationship in which your dog is in the deeply ingrained habit of taking direction from you. In other words, you're the boss, not the dog. Funny as it might sound, it's often the other way around and that's why the first third of my book, entitled "The Doggie Twelve-Step Program," is dedicated entirely to relationship building. From that foundation almost anything is possible. Simple things like always giving your dog a command before you have an interaction with him, not letting him run out the door ahead of you, and being a little aloof with him can do a world of good in causing your dog to cheerfully accept your leadership role.

In a minority of cases the question arises as to whether or not the dog you have right now would be appropriate to keep given the arrival of a child. In the chapter dedicated to this subject I offer four factors to consider if your dog has bitten or threatened to bite you under various circumstances. The first factor is threshold of reactivity. In other words, how much of a certain stimulus is required in order to make the dog reactive. The second is level of intensity. How ferocious is your dog in his response? Third is previous history. How long has your dog been doing this? The longer, the worse. And finally there are crossover considerations. For example, let's say your dog is mildly annoyed by your approach to his food dish while he is eating but he has injured other dogs in altercations at the park. I would view this as a red flag because of my concern that if your child wandered around his food dish he might be more likely to respond to him the way he responded to the dog at the park (dogs tend to view children as lower ranking pack members unless consistently taught otherwise) because he does not have the same respect for him as he does for you.

While the book does offer numerous solutions to aggressive behaviors, I suggest that if you are experiencing such issues that you hire a qualified behavior professional (not merely an obedience trainer) to help you resolve such issues and assess your dog. Keep in mind that some behaviors are not one hundred percent reversible and that the option of keeping your child and your dog separate at all times is a very bad idea, first because you can't assure no contact forever between them and that attempting to do so would cause the dog to view the child more as a stranger in his territory than a member of his pack. In some cases the best choice is to re-home the dog both for his sake and the sake of your child.

Supposing that your dog is not one of this rare minority, there are many things that you can do to help create not only safety but very positive associations for your dog with the presence of your child. First, by creating zones in your house that your dog is by and large forbidden in without your specific permission and accompaniment you build effective buffer zones into your dog's relationship with your child. Once these zones are established you can also use them to teach your dog how wonderful it is for him when you are interacting with your baby. Sound confusing?

Here's an example. Start by making the future baby's room off limits to your dog. Once that's handled, allow him to enter the room only with your permission and accompaniment. Once in the room always ask him for certain obedience exercises, especially down-stays. Soon he'll get the idea that when he enters this room he's to do a down-stay in the corner (you could even put a bed for him there). In addition, teach your dog to tolerate alone time every day to the tune of at least a few hours. Now, once your baby arrives, allow your dog to come into the baby's room when you go in to change diapers or play or whatever and assume his down-stay. If he has been left alone for a few hours prior to that he will welcome the contact with and your child even if it is low-level such as in this case. In other words, the presence of your child means a positive social engagement for him. This is quite different than what usually happens which is that when mommy goes to play with or care for baby, doggie gets thrown out, thus potentially setting up a competitive or jealous dynamic. This is only one of many examples of specific exercises that can teach your dog to accept your child as a beloved pack member and ultimately companion, the nuts and bolts of which are outlined in the book.

Other things that you can do to ensure a seamless transition to siblinghood for your dog include:

o Teaching him the difference between doggie toys and child's toys (start by getting doggie toys that are distinctly different from baby toys since often these two bear striking similarities).

o Get a baby doll and wrap it in a scented baby blanket (ask a friend to use a new blanket on her baby for a few days and then wrap it around your doll) and teach your dog appropriate manners around your "faux baby," thus setting up a template of behavior for future interactions.

o Hire a dog walker to take over exercise responsibilities during the period immediately after birth. This will take a lot of pressure off of you and produce a tired dog. The old adage that tired dogs are good dogs is definitely true.

While the above does not comprise a comprehensive list by any means, it should serve to provide a sense of direction and purpose. One thing to keep in mind in all of this is that there should never be any unsupervised interactions between your dog and your child ever, for any reason, period! Can I be more clear than that? Remember, there's too much at stake and it only takes two seconds for something to go terribly wrong.

All that having been said, keep in mind that your true challenge and the true test of the success of your efforts at integration will be seen once your child passes the eight-month threshold. What happens then? Your little one starts crawling and rapidly becoming highly mobile. This means that the frequency of unexpected and random encounters between your child and your dog will increase dramatically. That's where you'll find out if all your hard work paid off and indeed, if you've worked hard it will.

In closing, please understand that what I've outlined above represents the tip of the iceberg of strategies designed to make the integration of your dog and your child as seamless, warm and rewarding as possible. While learning and implementing such strategies implies varying amounts of work, it promises a wholesome and fulfilling relationship between your child and your dog. The payoff of this relationship will last for years and thus makes any work you have to put in on the front end more than worth it.

All that having been said, I wish you the best of luck with the exciting events that are unfolding in your life. Few things provide a living connection to the mystery of life like the opportunity to be the vehicle for a new life entering this world. The fact that we participate in this mystery is in itself extraordinary and should be the source of the deepest joy. Providing a wonderful home for a dog, that most loyal and devoted of animal companions, in this context should only enrich this experience. With this in mind I leave you with best wishes and heartfelt blessings.

Michael Wombacher has been involved with dogs for over twenty-five years in a variety of capacities. Mike has performed approximately 20,000 in-home behavioral consultations covering the entire spectrum of dog behavior from the mundane to the bizarre. He is also an author and lecturer. Mike teaches classes, runs a small boarding and training operation, and has occasionally trained other trainers.Mike's training approach focuses on channeling a dog's natural drives and instincts into behaviors acceptable in the human pack, primarily through the principles of positive reinforcement as well as through methods that appeal to the dog's canine sensibilities.

Mike has been certified as an expert on dog behavior by the California Superior Court and does occasional work evaluating dogs in legal matters. He has been featured on Fox 5 Television's "Good Day New York," San Francisco's Channel 7 News, Animal Planet as well as other television and radio programs nationwide. He has also been featured in major national magazines, including Fit Pregnancy (dogs & babies), Dog World, and Boston Whaler (dogs on boats) and is currently a regulator contributor to The American Dog Magazine, a national publication with a circulation of 800,000. He was recently interviewed by National Geographic Magazine. In February 2006, he spoke at the annual conference for California's animal care and control organizations.

Finally, Mike has trained dogs for high profile celebrities in the entertainment and financial worlds including Charles Schwab, Robin Williams, Barry Levinson, Joe Satriani, Bob Weir, Linda Ronstadt, Kirk Hammet (Metallica), Armistead Maupin, and Michael Tilson Thomas who commented that "Michael Wombacher is a maestro of dog trainers. His clarity of thinking, sense of humor and skills in communicating make dog training fun for both pet and pet lover."

http://www.gooddoghappybaby.com
http://www.doggonegood.org

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Dog Clothes Make Cute Gift Ideas for Your Pet

Planning to shop this season for the people in your list? Of all things, never forget to give a little something to your cutie pet dogs. If clothes and garments are your gift surprises to your loved ones, have the same gift idea for your pets, too. Dogs will appreciate your present more than ever and flaunt it with pride and joy.

Shopping clothes for your dogs is almost the same as shopping for your baby's cute little garments. And when cuteness is what matters the most, it will be fairly easy to spot for those lovely, mini garments in pet shops.

Take your pick from a wide selection of winter sweaters to summer tees and basketball jerseys. You can dress him up on his comfy PJ's for sleeping or a doggie bath robe after freshening your dog up. Just as kids have party costumes, dogs have their party and holiday attires, too.

Do you want your pet to become a head turner and attention grabber when you walk him in the park? Accessorize him with a uniquely designed dog collar and pair it up with cool shades. Leg warmers are also back in the trend. But before you begin with your shopping spree for your pet's clothes, you might want to consider these few useful tips.

What do you need to know and remember when shopping for dog clothes? First, do not go for clothes with meticulous details and potential chokers if he is a fond of chewing. Check for small-sized buttons, tassels, and feathers - they attract your pet's attention and when swallowed, can damage his digestive system.

Your dog will like it better if his clothing fits him just right and does not create inconvenience when walking or running. Clothing comfort is another important rule you need to consider. To be pretty safe, take your dog's measurement from the collar down to the base of the tail to get the correct length. As to the girth of most dog garments, they come with adjustable Velcro tabs. The problem is if your dog is the barrel-chested type like the bulldog.

Well, if you have the knack for sewing, you can customize your cute gift for your pet. Take the measurements and let out your creativity but make sure you leave an extra inch just in case! You can even make more for your neighbour's or your best friend's pet.

Learn more about hookworms in dogs, symptoms of dog hookworms and treatment for dog hookworms.

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Separation Anxiety in Dogs - Please Don't Leave Me!

By Rebecca Braglio

Separation anxiety, unfortunately, is a topic that is near and not-so-dear to my heart. My dog has suffered from severe separation anxiety for over two years now - actually, ever since I've had him. In fact, his separation anxiety was one of the inspirations behind thephillydog.com. I was frustrated by the lack of resources that I could easily find relating to the topic. Anyway, I have tried every - and I mean every - treatment out there when it comes to separation anxiety. I have talked and worked with dozens of trainers and tried dozens of methods. From Kongs to 45 minute runs to puppy playmates, I've amassed a huge amount of information on the topic.

Separation anxiety is a condition in dogs where the dog, for some reason, becomes overly attached to its owner. It is often seen in dogs who have either been rescued or have experienced some type of abandonment.

Do you have a dog who has separation anxiety? Do you find yourself scheduling your life around your dog because you can't leave him/her alone? Does your dog go into a panic when you leave? Does your dog bark/howl/whine when you leave the house? Cause massive destruction? Pant/shake/drool when you are getting ready to leave for the day? Is your pup overly dependent upon you? Are you overly dependent upon your dog? Are you now completely and utterly anxious about your dog's anxiety?

Dogs who have separation anxiety will often follow their owners everywhere - from room to room - and will NEVER let their owner out of their sight. The dog must always be near his/her owner and rarely seeks attention from anyone else. Author Patricia McConnell, whose book "I'll be Home Soon" I highly recommend refers to these types of dogs as "velcro" dogs.

McConnell maintains that these "velcro" dogs are absolutely traumatized when their owner leaves them. While some dogs are destructive when their owner leaves them alone during the day (because they are bored), the true separation anxiety dog goes through a type of "panic attack." Please watch a YouTube video for an example. This panic attack occurs within the first 20 minutes after the owner leaves. If you enter "separation anxiety" on the YouTube page, there are several examples of this. The panic attack sometimes begins to rear its ugly head as soon as the dog senses that the owner is getting ready to leave - for example, when the owner gets into the shower for work in the morning, when the owner puts on his/her coat or picks up the keys. The dog's tail may go between its legs, it may begin drooling, or the dog may begin to shake or shiver or may try to hide underneath furniture. My dog, for example, puts his tail between his legs the second he gets it in his head that I'm leaving - and he always senses it, even when I vary my routine. He then starts to shake and tries to crawl underneath the bed.

Some owners face the tough decision of whether to crate the dog who suffers from separation anxiety. Some of these dogs do a massive amount of destruction in the house to cope with their panic. Unfortunately, many of these dogs do not react well in crates - sometimes these dogs feel even more claustrophobic and crating the dog may make things even worse. My dog, for instance, seems very claustrophobic and no matter how wonderful I've tried to make the crate, it makes him worse. I fear he will break a tooth one day. Since he is not destructive, I chose not to crate him.

However, leaving the dog uncrated simply may not be any option because the dog could certainly hurt itself if left uncrated by the type of damage it causes in the home.

Or, the dog may still bark/howl which is a major problem if you live in an apartment.

So how do you know whether your dog has separation anxiety? The main difference between a dog who is simply bored/lonely and the separation anxiety dog is that the usual "tricks" won't work for the separation anxiety dog. For example, lots of exercise (while certainly important and helpful) won't stop the panic attacks. While you must always exercise your dog, it won't make the anxiety go away (I surmise if you stopped exercising your dog it would make it worse, though!). Giving the separation anxiety dog a Kong filled with peanut butter usually won't work. The dog is too focused on the owner and too stressed to be able to eat.

On the other hand, a dog who is bored or lonely will be very interested in the Kong or whatever toy you give them. Giving these dogs something to do while you are away helps these types of dogs. That is why these dogs are not suffering from separation anxiety.

These toys are very useful, however, in desensitizing the separating anxiety dog to your leaving. By pairing the separation anxiety dog's favorite treats (in a kong) with you picking up your keys and then putting your keys down can get your dog acclimated to keys being associated as being a "not-so-bad-thing." This process, however, can take a very, very, very long time. Months. In the meantime, the dog can't be left alone otherwise progress will be lost.

Is there hope for the separation anxiety dog? Perhaps. Some never get better, some are "maintained." These dogs often end up back in shelters, which only reinforces their separation anxiety problem if they end up adopted. There are medications available, such as Clomicalm, an antidepressant, that veterinarians use in these situations. While Clomicalm takes the "edge off," the dog STILL must receive training and learn how to be more confident and distance itself from its owner and learn how to be alone. These medications, on their own, will not solve the problem.

Many owners wonder whether getting another dog will solve the problem. The general answer, is "no". Separation anxiety is not about being alone. It is about being away from the OWNER. Therefore, another dog will not change that. A good example would be to compare the situation to a first time mother who has sent her infant to day care. Consider the type of anxiety and how worried she is while her infant is away from her. The dog would be the mother and the owner would be the infant. No number of mothers (or dogs) would offer comfort or change that situation. There would still be anxiety.

Some owners, however, have experienced tremendous success with getting another dog. I would advise against running out and getting another dog simply to solve this problem. Adding another dog is a huge responsibility, and you could end up with two dogs with separation anxiety. Instead, see if you could foster a dog or if a friend could "lend" you their dog for a little while to see if that changes the situation. If it does, then that may be one of the solutions for you.

What can you do? Most importantly, as the owner of a dog with separation anxiety, there are steps you must take in order to help your dog become more independent. You must put your dog on a "you" diet - only give your dog attention when you decide to - not every time your dog wants attention or demands it. You cannot have your dog sleeping in your bed. Your dog MUST learn how to be AWAY from you. Get your dog his/her own bed and put it down on the floor next to your bed. Let him/her learn that he/she can make it through the night without being right next to you. Do NOT let him/her follow you from room to room. Do not let your dog into the bathroom when you shower, etc. Do not let your dog when your go into your room when you change.

These may seem like minor things, but they do add up. Enter into an obedience class or an agility class to give your pup even more confidence. Eventually, this should teach your dog that it is okay to be on his/her own and that you aren't going anywhere and if you do, you will be back.

Rebecca Braglio
http://www.ThePhillyDog.com celebrating dogs in the city of doggie love!

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Dog Insurance Explored

Getting covered under an insurance plan is very common these days. We always research market in search of better and flexible insurance plans. In case of our pet dogs we must need to find an insurance provider as in times and again an insured dog helps us avoiding costly recurring bills. It is always a wise idea to get insurance for your 'doggy'. First of all you have to find an insurance provider. Lets' take a look at some basic steps for finding out an insurance company-

1. Market research
Before you decide to buy dog insurance, search for dog insurance providers available in the market. You may take help of online resources too. There will be lenders available in the market ready to insure your dog under a decent insurance plan. Sort out couple of providers and tally their plans. Find out every possible loop holes and ask the company for clarification. After all, when you are satisfied purchase insurance for your favorite pet dog. You may also take help from neighbors, relatives, friends to find out a provider. Who tells you may find best insurance plan from them.

2. Dog insurance plans
Dog insurance plans differ depending on several factors. Commonly, companies cover illness related disorders and provide costs incurred during treatment. Pet dogs are like family members. When these creatures are ill we are bound to spend money for its treatment. Thus, it is always better to get the dog insured under a decent insurance plan.

Common Considerations for Dog Insurance
There are several factors play roles before we find out an insurance plan for our dog. Here are some common factors-

1. Breed
Dog breed plays a lot in times and again. Companies decide to provide insurance for some specific breeds. If your dog comes under this category no problem; you are moved to next section.

2. Age of the dog
Dog age is also important; aged dogs are prone to illness in comparison to young dogs. If your dog is aged but you find out an insurance provider; the insurance premium normally goes higher.

3. Health Condition of dog
Before your dog gets insured it needs to undergo some physical checkups. These reports are considered at the time of insurance. So make sure your dog is fit enough to pass fitness tests.

4. Record of previous illness
This is another factor that is very important. You have to submit reports of earlier illness. If your dog once suffered from a serious disease there is every possibility that you do not get approval from an insurance vendor.
Finally, insure for your loving dog. Release extra overhead of injury and illness related costs in future.

Dog Insurance is very popular these days and important too. Dog Insurance covers illness and injury related issues of your dog. Dog Insurance depending on several factors. Learn more about Pet insurance coverspre existing conditions.

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Dog Parks - Good Or Bad?

By Darcy Austin

Dog parks are a place where both dogs and their owners can go to socialize. But are they good or bad? Though there popularity has skyrocketed in the past few years, they have both supporters and people who don't feel comfortable bringing their dog there for a variety of reasons.

Dog parks provide an outlet for many dogs to burn off pent up energy that might otherwise result in frustration that leads to destructive behavior at home. People are often advised to give their dog plenty of exercise, and one of the most convenient and popular places people look to for their dog's exercise outlet is at a dog park.

There their dogs can run and play with other dogs. They can have interaction with other dogs that they wouldn't otherwise have on a solo dog walk in the neighborhood. This is an excellent way for a dog to build up his socialization skills as long as the owners of the dogs remain vigilant in monitoring their dog's interactions. There are rules in most dog parks. Dogs are usually separated to some extent by size, with the large dogs having their own area in which to run and play and the small dogs are then free to run in their own area behind fencing without fear of being mauled and attacked. Some parks may only allow spayed and neutered dogs to play which reduces any problems with fighting for reproductive reasons. Another positive aspect of dog parks is that they allow dog owners to meet each other and discuss concerns about their dogs and other things. Quite often people know each other only by their "dog's" name , not their own! Dog parks have many positive benefits to both dogs and owners providing there are rules and everyone abides by them and respects other dog owners and their dogs.

On the negative side of things ,despite efforts to ensure only dogs with good manners come to parks, there can still be fights that break out amongst dogs in dog parks. Under the right (or wrong) conditions, any dog can play rough or get into a fight. Dogs have been known to be injured at dog parks. Some of the rules that were spoken about prior can require owners to show some proof of vaccination before allowing their dogs to enter.

This can be a hassle and dogs can still pass on illnesses to each other. Some dogs such as pitbulls, rotweillers, and other more aggressive breeds are excluded from some parks. This can seem discriminatory to owners of these dogs when their dogs have been known to shown no signs of aggression. Other people feel that it's unfair to deny park privileges to intact dogs, especially when female dogs are not in season.

As with many situations, much of the negative behavior that happens with dogs at dog parks is due to the lack of involvement of their owners. Even though it is a free environment and the dogs are enjoying themselves, owners still need to watch and understand their dog and his body language so that they can head off any altercations that may be brewing. With increased supervision on the part of dog owners, the likelihood of dogs getting hurt, either through rough play or by becoming involved in fights, can definatively be lowered. Some owners do not watch their dogs very carefully or they allow small dogs to pick fights with large dogs, or large dogs to run over small dogs. This then creates tension and bad feelings amongst the owners, which unbeknownst to many, can transfer to the dogs.

It's important to consider all of these different points when you are thinking of taking your own dog to a dog park. Ask yourself some honest questions. Is your dog friendly with other dogs? Is your dog up-to-date on his vaccinations? Does he have any kind of lingering virus that he might pass on to other dogs? Is he very small or very large or likely to be injured during play? Will he come to you when you call if there is any kind of trouble in the dog park? Will you be able to watch your dog carefully if you take him to the dog park?

Whether or not dog parks are good or bad for your dog requires that you give these questions careful consideration before deciding if you want to take your dog to the park. Dog parks can be lots of fun for dogs but it's up to you to look out for your dog and keep him safe wherever you take him.

Darcy Austin is the chief editor of Dog Obedience University, an information-rich site that provides articles and resources on modifying your dog's behavior.
Go there and enroll in the free mini-course and learn more about reinforcing positive dog behavior.

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Why Your Dog Jumps on People and How to Stop It

By William Mac

Well, that's how I feel when dogs jump on me..

When I got my Border Collie mix Sam from the local Humane Society, he had very few problems, which is a godsend for a rescued dog. In fact, when I inquired about Sam through a phone call, the people at the Humane Society said he was basically the perfect dog. They informed me that the only problem he had was jumping up on people. I thought, "that will be easy to solve".

When I brought Sam home he really was well behaved. He didn't chew on things, he didn't pee in the house and he didn't bark very much. However, every chance he got he would jump up on me. When I invited guests over, he would jump up on them.

Since Sam is a fairly big dog weighing in at around 80 pounds, it scared my friends when he jumped on them. Even though I thought it would be an easy problem to fix, I was wrong. The reason why I was wrong is because I had no idea why my dog was jumping up on people in the first place, and that's the primary problem. In order to stop unwanted behavior in your dog, you first have to find out WHY your dog is exhibiting such behavior.

The following are a few reasons why dogs jump on people and the solutions to those problems:

1) DOMINANCE: When a dog wants to be dominant it will attempt to claim things, this means people, furniture, toys, areas of the house and so on. Jumping on people sometimes means your dog wants to "claim" that person as its own, it wants to raise its status in life and wants everyone around to know that it's the pack leader. But, you can never let your dog be the leader - you're the dominant one, not your dog - you are the pack leader.

SOLUTION

A dog that wants to be dominant is much harder to train not to jump up on people and can sometimes become aggressive towards you as the owner when you try to correct that training. In order to stop dog jumping when it comes to a dominant dog is, not so much correct the behavior, but let your dog know that YOU are the alpha dog and to make your dog submissive to you and your commands. Here are a few ways to start exercising your dominance:

- Never allow your dog to walk through a door or narrow passage way before you do

- Never allow your dog to walk in front of you on a leash, only beside you or behind you.

- Teach your dog simple commands like sit and stay by using "positive reinforcement", which means you reward your dog with a treat, affection or praise when it does what you want

- Practice a domination ritual three times a week for four weeks. For example, Jack and Wendy Volhard, authors of several award-winning dog-training books, instruct owners to do the following.

o Sit on the floor beside your dog without saying anything

o Place your dog in the "down" position

o If your dog gets up, put him back without saying anything

o Keep your hands off when your dog is down, and only put your hands on your dog when it tries to get back up again

o Stay still

o Practice for 30 minutes three times a week for four weeks until you can make your dog go in the "down" position from across the room.

This "domination ritual" will solidify you as your dog's pack leader and let your dog know that you're the boss. That way, instead of jumping up on you or other people, your dog will know "No" when it hears the word.

2) GREETING: Dogs will greet each other by smelling scent glands around the face, when it comes to people, the only way for your dog to get to know them is by jumping up! However, this is still unwanted behavior.

SOLUTION

The way I solved this problem with my large dog Sam is by placing a spray bottle filled with water by the front door. Not all dogs have a problem with being sprayed with water, but most of them find it unpleasant like my dog Sam does. So, I instructed guests to immediately pick up the spray bottle when they walked in the house. As soon as my dog began to jump up on them I told them to spray him with water. After a few times Sam stopped jumping up on my guests or me.

If your dog does not respond to being sprayed with water (like Golden Retrievers or other water-loving breeds) then you may try using a shock collar. Just fit your dog with the shock collar and, with the remote in hand, have some friends or neighbors come over and knock on the door and come in. As soon as you see your dog beginning to think about jumping, press the button and shock your dog. This is a quick way for your dog to learn that it's not allowed to jump on people.

3) THE BEHAVIOR IS REWARDED: When you come home from work and your dog jumps up to greet you, you greet your dog back with hugs, kisses and vocal praise. When your dog jumps up on the couch next to you, you cuddle with it. However, when people come over to your house to visit, you wonder why your dog jumps on them.

SOLUTION

Stop rewarding unwanted behavior - it's that simple. If you don't want your dog to jump up on you all the time or on other people or even on your furniture, then you need to be consistent.

Your dog does what benefits him/her. If your dog finds out that jumping up on people gets it attention and praise, then your dog thinks it's OK to jump all of the time.

The only way to correct this behavior is to make your dog do something in order to deserve praise or the privilege to jump on you. For example:

- When you get home from work and your dog jumps up to greet you, turn around and ignore it. Or, do as I did, and spray your dog with water or use a shock.

- Once your dog has calmed down, then you can give your dog affection and invite your dog to jump up on you. However, when you're finished, go back to ignoring your dog. This shows your dog that, only when you give him attention is your dog allowed to pay attention to you. Also, you need to inform neighbors, family members and friends that come over to never give the dog attention when it jumps on them. Tell guests to completely ignore the dog or spray it with water when walking in. Only when the dog has understood its place can you or your guests give affection.

- When you sit on the couch, don't allow your dog to just jump right up. Instead, make your dog sit and stay for a few moments before jumping up on the couch. Only when you say it's OK for the dog to join you can the dog actually jump on the couch.

Again, the only way to solve unwanted behavior in your dog is consistency and discipline. Don't reward unwanted behavior. Establish your dominance. Only when the dog is in a calm, reserved state of mind are you allowed to give it affection.

Your dog is obsessed with self-interest. It only does what it gets rewarded for and what it gets fed for. A dog will understand cause and effect. So, when you discipline your dog for unwanted behavior, you're basically saying that the behavior warrants an unwanted affect and stopping that behavior equals a reward.

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Compassionate Care For Your Aging Dog

By Louise Gilbert

Dog owners are often taken by surprise when they realize their dog is getting older. Perhaps an owner has noticed their pet taking an unusually long time to get up in the mornings, or maybe the dog becomes disoriented when outside. This realization can be emotionally troubling to the owner, as he sees his pet becoming more feeble as time goes by. Compassionate care of an aging dog is necessary to ensure the well being of both the dog and owner, and prepare them both for this new stage of life.

Dogs, like humans, are living longer than ever. Depending on the breed and environment, a dogs' middle age is around seven. Veterinarians suggest that when a dog reaches seven years of age, prevention and preparation become the key elements of care. A dog should be taken to the vet at this age for a full exam in order to check the general health of the dog. Your dog should always see the vet if a pet owner notices any stiffness, bad breath, disorientation, lumps that are growing, or has a change in eating or drinking. These symptoms could be signs of something more serious that needs medical attention. As dogs age, hearing and sight deteriorate, sleep patterns change, weight may change, and the immune system of a dog can decline. Many of these physical changes bring on emotional changes as well.

For example, a dog may not recognize familiar people because of hearing or sight decline, and instead of being friendly, a dog may react with fear or anger. With a little knowledge a pet owner can make the transition into the senior years for their pet happy and healthy. Many aging dogs suffer from arthritis or stiffness in the morning or after naps. A dog owner can make a few changes in their pets' environment to make this easier on the dog. Provide a warm, soft bed for the dog to sleep in, preferably on the floor so the dog does not have to jump up onto a bed or couch. Massage is an excellent treatment for pets with stiff joints. Massaging your dog will reduce pain and increase blood flow to the body. Massage also provides a level of comfort to a dog that may be disoriented or fearful. Massage can be done at any time, but if done before bed, the dog may have a more restful night of sleep. Massage after exercise can prevent stiffness from setting in. In addition to massage, an owner should remember to groom the dog as well.

Older pets have a more difficult time keeping themselves clean, especially after eating or taking a walk. Bathe and brush when needed; your pet will love the comforting attention! Changing the dogs walking schedule may help a dog with arthritis or other medical conditions. Shorter walks, but perhaps more often, can improve stiffness and keep the dog strong and healthy. An older dog wears out quicker, so be sure not to walk so far your pet can't make it back! Exercise can improve a dogs health and mental alertness, but many older dogs become fatigued easily while exercising. Shorter, but more frequent walks also may be needed for a pet with incontinence. Aging dogs may begin to urinate inside the home. If this begins, the dog should be seen by a vet to rule out any serious medical issues. Pet stores or pharmacies sell padding for incontinence. These should be placed anywhere the pet may have gone before, as well as in the pets' bed.

At this stage in a dogs life, punishment for going indoors should be stopped, your dog doesn't want to be bad, he cannot help it. Dogs with hearing and sight loss actually adjust fairly well to these disabilities. Dogs rely on their sense of smell more than sight to find their way around. A blind dog rarely will run into anything or get into danger because they use their smell to guide them. However, a dog owner should do a few things to ensure the dog can maneuver around safely. Do not move furniture around in the house if the dog already knows where everything is located. Follow the same walking route so the dog can move freely and actively. Always keep the food, water bowls and bed in the same place. For a dog with hearing loss there are many things an owner can do to assist their pet. Speak louder when talking to the dog, but be sure that with volume the owner still maintains a pleasant voice. Use hand signals when giving a command. For example, when it's time to go for a walk, point towards the door while your dog is watching and speak to the dog.

Your pet can use these hand signals to follow the owner more easily instead of listening to voice commands. Dogs can become lethargic or depressed due to aging and illness. Keeping a dog mentally stimulated is just as important as their physical well being. Set aside play time each day for your pet. If the dog is healthy enough, spend some time in the yard throwing a ball to him, or gather other toys and just play on the floor inside. If your dog gets along with other dogs, try a "play date" with other pets. Sometimes, a younger dog can provide motivation for an older pet to play or exercise more often. Companionship for your dog, whether full or part time, can help a pet shake the depression that dogs may have as they age.

If your dogs breath is getting bad, again, have the vet check for teeth that may need to be removed, or for any other major health problems. Changing the dogs diet may be needed. Softer dog food is easier on the teeth. Provide your dog with healthy snacks and plenty of fresh water. Owners can assist their dogs by occasionally brushing their teeth for them, although many dogs wont tolerate it. Providing smaller, more frequent meals will also help your dogs digestion system. Try one of the many senior dog foods; they are lower in calories and provide the proper nutrition for an older dog. Older dogs may gain too much weight, adding to their health problems and lethargy, so the senior dog food is a good choice.

As always, plenty of love and attention will make your pet happy. Dogs are social animals, they love us, and need to express that. Allow your dog to guide you through the senior years as well. Pay attention to any signals or symptoms your pet is sending you. Follow your dogs new pace and activity level and don't over do it. Giving your dog plenty of attention now can help your pet adjust to the aches and pains of aging and provide comfort to both the owner and dog.

Louise Gilbert is passionate about saving endangered species, pets, wildlife, nature and the environment. You can view her site at Baby Wildlife and Pets [http://www.baby-mammals.com/]

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Aggression Triggers in Dogs

By Louise Basson

Aggression in dogs can be caused by many triggers. It's up to us to find out what is triggering our dogs to have behavior that comes out in the form of aggression. There are many motivational triggers to look at in dog aggression...

Leadership is one of the first and most common triggers of aggression in a multi dog house hold. In a pack of dogs or a family with more then one dog one leader will be chosen by the pack of dogs. This usually results in a fight. The one who wins is then the pack leader. This may be challenged again at times. It is important for us as humans to respect this and not treat the weaker dog of the pack with more care and attentiveness. This will only cause aggression in the leader of the pack and make life difficult for your dogs.

Pack hierarchy is the rank order of the rest of your dog pack and with each dog it is different. This can occur multiple times in order for the pack rank to move from one dog to another.

Protection of territory is important to most dogs. Some are protective of where they live, food bowl, preferred toy or his human companions or one of his human family members.

Maternal instinct can occur when the male dog comes to close to her puppies or when humans especially children come to close for comfort. It's important to avoid sudden contact with pups.

Fear/Stress can cause a dog to bite and can be apart of flight or fight decision when a dog is scared. The dog needs personal space. When introducing two dogs to each other, it's important to give them space and not hover over them the whole time. This can also be avoided by not letting a dog meet and greet being attached to a leash as the dog will feel your stress and the tightened leash. It is even better if they can meet on an area that is not familiar to any of the dogs to avoid territorial aggression. At first when adopting a second or third dog it's important to give the dog that you had first, attention and food first until they have figured out their pack dynamics.

Hunting instinct is more prone in some dog breeds then others. Huskies are well known for this as they have a high prey drive and an excited energy and can cause great harm and death to smaller dogs and animals.

Dogs that suffer from pain or is injured should always be handled with a muzzle on. An injured dog wants to protect him by the only way he knows how and that is through aggression this goes hand in hand with fear and stress related aggression. When dogs get into a fight, beating them to stop the fight can even stir up a bigger fight between the dogs.

Dogs can be competitive mostly for attention from his owners and this causes some jealousy that triggers unwanted behavior that can go over into aggression.

Dogs and kids both need boundaries and very often we let kids just play with dogs as they please. This can cause a dog to snap. There are usually many warning signs of a dog feeling frustrated by a child. Things like walking away, growling etc. But we and kids choose to ignore this and push the dog just that little bit extra. This is how kids get bitten by dogs most of the time and this is the only way they know how to say please stop now. Adult dogs do this with puppies too and discipline them this way.

When dogs play they can easily cross the point of being play full and starting to fight. It's important for us to know when they are still playing and when they are starting to fight. This can avoid serious fights. Dogs that play will only bite lightly and leave the certain spot where he is biting after just a few seconds. Dogs that really fight will open flesh. Also take notice when one of the dogs seem to want to leave and not play any more and when they start to growl with irritation this is when they should stop. Dogs wanting to play lays down in the down ward dog position. This is when they put their front paws down on the ground with their hind legs up wards, tails can wag and they can jump around excited and make friendly barking sounds.

Male dogs cause up to 90% of gender fights, but male dogs sort out their problems much more quickly then female dogs. Females that are spayed can be more aggressive because they have more testosterone, but an intact female is like a woman that has pms. An intact female goes through that same hormonal stages, irritability and feeling down.

Some breeds are more prone to fight because of their genetic make-up. How you raise these dogs and socialize them can make a vast difference in their temperament.

Idiopathic aggression they say is caused by a brain dysfunction. This is usually seen in larger breeds. These dogs will suddenly attack and then minutes later be the sweetest dog and seem to have totally forgotten about the attack. These dogs should not be used to breed.

Learned aggression is usually caused by humans. These dogs can use aggression because it works to achieve what they want. It can be that the pups were bullied. Or dogs that use aggression to survive.

Not socializing a dog can cause aggression problems. If a dog is only used to being with an older lady, he might not be able to know how to handle kids and or men or other dogs. This can go two ways; either being scared and pancake or being aggressive to wards the other dog or human. Know that this is not true aggression, but unwanted dog behavior from a dog that is uncertain and scared.

Training dogs to be aggressive can be given on cue when a dog is trained as a police dog or for security purposes.

Ageing dogs can tend to be aggressive. This goes hand in hand with sickness and pain as they are scared that they will be hurt and because their senses of hearing and sight can be less accurate. This can cause a dog to get frightened and react accordingly.

Metabolic disturbances can occur with low blood sugar that could be caused due to hunger. This shifts the testosterone and can cause aggression.

Displaced aggression can be caused by two dogs that run to a gate barking at a stranger or dog passing. Because of the gate constricting them to not be able to reach out to the stranger. They turn to each other out of frustration and miss place the aggression.

Louise Basson is the author and web master of http://www.dog-care-centre.com She also runs a dog day care centre and kennel for dogs. This is a specialized facility for only a few dogs to insure optimum care.

She specializes in Alaskan Huskies and has been to Alaska to learn more about the breed and the dog powered sport called mushing. Louise also is currently busy with Ethology-dog behaviour training course. She also distributes mushing gear and dog care centre dog gear and treats. Louise Basson is a part of Siberian Husky Rescue Gauteng to help foster and re home Huskies in the Western Cape.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Louise_Basson

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What to Do When Your Dog Won't Eat

By Susi Szeremy

Your dog won't eat. Or your cat is a picky eater. So what on earth do you do?

First, a caveat. No animal will willingly starve itself. But ALWAYS have your pet seen by a vet when there's a change in behavior. You need to rule out illness before embarking on solving a pet's eating problem. Be sure to check for a bad tooth as this is often overlooked as a cause of eating issues. The second caveat: Eating problems can be complex and the tips offered here are simplistic. I offer them with 30 years of experience as a dog owner, breeder, handler and fancier in the world of dogs, but you should discuss them with your vet to see if any are a plausible remedy for your pet's situation.

We'll start with dogs, and assuming that your dog is healthy but not a good eater, here are some potential reasons why and ideas for fixing it.

If you feed your dog treats during the day, stop. You want your dog hungry at meal times.If your dog is a show dog, remember that bait should be offered in TINY pieces, it's not meant to be dinner. When it comes to meals, put the dog's food bowl on the floor, give her 10 minutes to eat it, and if it isn't touched, pick it up and put it away. Don't feed again until the next meal, and resist the temptation to give treats. Do this for a whole week because what you're doing here is behavior modification. Remember, a healthy dog won't starve itself to death, but a stubborn, healthy dog could modify YOUR behavior if you cave in.

If you change pet foods frequently, stop. Frequent diet changes can create a finicky eater. The dog learns to "holdout" to see what will be offered next. When you find a nutritious diet your pet will eat, stay with it. If you MUST change the pet's diet, do it gradually over a two week period. Add a small amount of the new diet to the old food, and each day, increase the amount of the new feed while decreasing the amount of the current food. This gradual change will help prevent diarrhea, vomiting and finicky eating.

With picky eaters, it's important to feed a "super premium" brand of dog food. These foods cost a little more and are made with better ingredients, but they are nutritionally dense. This means that your dog is actually eating less in quantity than the cheaper brands bought at grocery stores (these foods have the nutritional value of bark), but because there are more "calories per cup" in a premium food, they're actually getting more nutrition. Look for brands such as Merrick's "Grammy's Pot Pie" (canned food), California Natural, Prarie, Canidae, Flint River, Nutro, Wellness, Eagle Pack Holistic or Nutrisource.

Mixing kibble with a small amount of canned dog food and water will also make it enticing. This next part is important: The single most natural way to increase a pet's appetite is to warm their food because it increases the smell and makes it more appetizing.

Perhaps your dog has a health issue or is on a medication that makes him not want to eat. She's under a vet's care, but the task of getting nutrition into her falls on you. Now what? First, understand that the less a dog eats, the less he WANTS to eat. Add to that the dog who comes to associate food with nausea and you have a real problem, so the sooner you can get your dog to WANT to eat on his own, the better. So much for the obvious.

We'll start with the simplest remedies and work our way up to a radical solution that worked for one of my dogs. Assuming that your dog is on a high quality feed but still not eating, you may need to go to the next step: making dog food taste even better.

You don't want to make these next foods a daily staple, mostly because the high sodium content of many of them would be contra-indicated for dogs in renal failure or with heart issues (if your dog does have kidney issues, check out a really informative web site here.) The following foods have been tried and tested by people in the dog fancy and are suggested ONLY as a means to jump start the appetite in a sick or compromised dog: Sardines, canned cat food, Gerber's baby food - especially turkey or sweet potato, braunschweiger, Limburger Cheese, broth, pureed liver, Dinty Moore Beef Stew, yogurt, cottage cheese/cream cheese, canned mackerel, scrambled eggs with cream cheese, chicken noodle soup - and even this one: hard-boiled eggs smashed up in French Vanilla yogurt, slightly warmed.

Sometimes, you may need to "jump start" an appetite with something so enticing, it's irresistible. Here is the original recipe for "Satin Balls," one of the most requested recipes on Wellpet, Showdogs-L, VetMed, and other popular e-mail lists for serious dog people:

10 pounds of cheap hamburger meat

1 lg. box of Total cereal

1 lg. box oatmeal

1 jar of wheat germ

1 1/4 cup veg oil

1 1/4 cup of unsulfured molasses

10 raw eggs AND shells

10 envelopes of unflavored gelatin

pinch of salt

Mix all ingredients together, much like you would a meatloaf. Divide the batch into 10 quart freezer bags and freeze.Thaw as needed and feed raw! (This is also a good way to put weight on a skinny dog, increase energy, and to alleviate itchy, flaky skin). This isn't a substitute for meals, it's meant to whet a dog's appetite. If the dog is eating this eagerly, start mixing it with kibble gradually. The idea is to wean them off the Satin Balls and onto kibble.

Next, we move on to "fixes" that come in a tube or pill. Remember that the point of these products is to stimulate an appetite and are not long term solutions; We start with Re-Vita whose products are said to be effective for problem appetites; "Pet-Tinic" is a liquid dietary supplement containing iron, copper and 5 essential vitamins. The palable meat-flavored liquid is readily accepted and one "tester" reported that it brought back her pet's appetite almost immediately, Because of its contents, you'll want to have your vet's approval before using this. "Nutri-Cal" is pure nutrition that squeezes out like toothpaste; dogs like its taste and it's a quick way to get nutrition into a dog. When diluted with water, Dyne High Calorie Dietary Supplement can be used to combat dehydration and provide energy because each ounce provides approximately 150 calories containing vitamins and minerals that maintain constant therapeutic blood levels.

If none of the aforementioned tips work, this is where I get pretty serious because my own philosophy is that a lack of appetite is a lousy reason for a dog to die. What you'll read next isn't pleasant - but if you love your dog, you have to get nutrition into her. As far as I know,there are four ways to do this when the dog can't eat on his own: syringe food into the dog's mouth, stuff food down the dog's throat, hook the dog up to an IV, or insert a stomach tube. I've done all of them at one time or another. And they all stink, but they're preferable to the alternative: a dog who wastes away and dies.

Syringing: You'll need a couple of large syringes from your vet. Using canned food; determine the amount your dog needs to sustain his weight, divide that amount in half and spoon that much into a blender (you and this blender will become inseparable over the coming days). Add enough warm water to blend easily into a very fine puree and for each meal, gently syringe the puree into the side of the dog's lips. Or, you can cut to the chase. Pry the dog's mouth open and squeeze the syringe plunger down so that the food trickles to the side and back of the dog's mouth. It takes a bit of time to get the hang of this since you don't want the dog to aspirate food into his lungs. Speak to the dog soothingly and praise him when you're done. Remember, it's not the dog's fault he's unable to eat and it's only temporary until the appetite comes back.

Stuffing: This was my least favorite means of getting food into a dog. It was messy and degrading. In a nutshell, you make "food bombs" that are narrow enough to slide down the back of the dog's throat. These "bombs" are a mixture of wet & dry food that's been pureed into a texture that allows shaping. There are folks out there who are really good at doing this - and some dogs who just don't eat well become so used to eating this way that they'll stand calmly, lift up their little heads and open their mouths like guppies in anticipation for the next "bomb." Since all we care about is getting nutrition into the dog, if this works for you,that's what counts.

IV: A "no brainer." At this point, a dog is so ill that this is pretty much the last resort. It's no substitute for the calories gotten from real food, but sometimes it serves as a band-aid until the dog is back on its feet and able to eat the real thing.

Stomach tube: Proverbially speaking, this is what separates the men from the boys. When I was faced with a dog whose heart medication caused anorexia but who was otherwise healthy, I had but little choice to pull out all the stops. Syringe feeding, food bombs - these were not long term solutions. Guided by my vet, we made an informed decision to insert a stomach tube. Mind you, at the time we thought it would be a short term fix until my dog ate on his own. Keep reading.

The first tube put in was an ugly, brown rubber tube that was SO long, it had to be wrapped around my dog's mid section and secured with a lady's tube top when not in use. I prepared the food as if I was going to syringe it into my dog's mouth, only it was syringed into a tube that had been inserted into his side over the stomach. In less than a week, the dog knew the sound of the blender, knew what was coming and would lie down on his side in preparation for his meal.

Each day before I approached the blender, I always offered the dog his meal in a bowl since it was my fondest desire that the dog eat like a dog. After many weeks, however, I knew this wasn't going to happen. Ever. At this point, my vet and I had a frank discussion about options and he mentioned a permanent tube, one inserted from the inside out. The "Bard" was a gastronomy device made of silicon that was successfully used to feed disabled children but had never been used in canines. My nearly 14 year old Puli would be the first dog to have the slick silicon "button" inserted. It fit flush against his stomach and a little "lid" flicked open like the flip-top portion of a tube of toothpaste. Compared to what I had been working with, it was a Porsche compared to an Edsel and no one else ever knew it was there.

The tube enabled my dog to live a couple of more years. Feeding him took less than five minutes and afterwards, he would run with the other dogs,bark into the wind, enjoy the sun on his back and know that I adored him. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Because of the seemingly radical step we took to ensure this dog's survival, it wasn't something I discussed openly. Too many people out there feel that if a dog can't eat on his own, he's not meant to live. To them I say, "Phooey." The dog wanted to live, to survive and feel the hand of those who loved him rubbing his ears. But he couldn't eat. His spirit was willing and he would have done anything to please me, but this one thing he couldn't do. How then, was I to deny him the one thing I could do to help him?

Cats: Needless to say, cats are not like dogs. They can get liver damage from not eating even for just a day or two. When a cat stops eating, their body will start to use its fat stores as fuel. The old fat stores are mobilized to the liver, which should begin fat burning. But when the fat arrives at the liver, the liver doesn't burn the fat efficiently and it accumulates in the liver.

The resulting liver disorder is known as "hepatic lipidosis", or "fatty liver disease." This condition may be suggested when blood tests show impaired liver function. Getting fatty liver disease is not isolated only to cats, and fasting cats don't always get this condition, they just seem more prone to it when they don't eat.

But according to the Cornell Online Consultant, there are 454 more possible Diagnoses for Feline Anorexia. Wow. A good web site you can visit here explains the different reasons a cat might not be eating, from acid stomach to ulcers and including fatty liver disease. The bottom line, however,is that you have less "wiggle room" when a cat won't eat. Tries these tips:

-Warm the food because warmed food has a stronger smell which will make a cat want to eat.

-Handfeeding: Sit with your cat and talk to her. Offer a little piece of food to her.

-Offer special treats like canned or pouched food instead of dry kibble.

-Offer tuna and cheese or milk or cream, all in small amounts.

-Tasty liquids, like water from tuna packed in water or, rarely, oil. Avoid tuna packed in vegetable broth as itmay contain onions. Try clam juice or low-salt chicken broth. Avoid onions and anything made with bouillan as it's too salty;

-Sprinkle some catnip on the food.

Pull out all the stops and make some Home Made Cat Food with this recipe:

Switch off the protein sources with each batch or two. Switch between:

- Half Pound of minced boneless chicken breast or thigh

- Six Ounces of dark-mean ground turkey or minced turkey

- Half Pound of lean, minced beef

- Half Pound of minced beef, chicken or turkey heart. About three times a week, include one chopped hard-boiled or scrambled egg. Occasionally substitute a five-ounce can of salmon or tuna for the meat. Avoid canned salmon or tuna for cats that are prone to urinary tract infections.

Mix foods together.

There are some drugs that can help stimulate a cat's appetite including Diazepam (Valium). Other drugs to ask your vet about are Periactin (generic name Cyproheptadine), Serax (generic name Oxazepam) and Dalmane (generic name Flurazepam). All have potential side effects so it's important to talk with your vet.

Syringe feeding and feeding tubes as mentioned in the section for dogs is also an option for cats.

Good luck and know that you're not alone. Feeding issues are among the most frustrating of concerns.

S.E. Szeremy is a writer, breeder/owner/handler of Pulik and creator of [http://www.KnobNots.com], the friendly alternative to "Beware of Dog" Signs that won't make your pet sound vicious: Transform a door into a safety billboard for people and pets.

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Finding and Hiring a Dog Walker

By James T Phillips

If you work more than 6 hours a day and own a dog, you need a dog walker!

Urban life can be hard for dogs. Many of us keep pets in cramped city apartments and work long hours, resulting in a dogs life which is a far cry from that of a rural or suburban dog who usually has an outside yard to roam during the day -- or if they're really lucky, acres of open land in which to frolic.

Yet there is no reason why a city dog cannot enjoy a fantastic quality of life. Living in the city has its disadvantages but also brings with it levels of stimulation -- sights, sounds and smells -- which suburban or rural dogs never get to experience. City dogs are also also blessed with far more social opportunities, whether they be with other dogs on the street or with a pack of their buddies at the local dog park or dog run.

But many owners work long hours and enjoy active social lives, meaning long periods in which their pets are alone. For a dog, this means hours of inactivity -- especially in a small apartment or studio which has little space to play or run.

For this reason, most urban dog owners hire a dog walker. Having someone take your dog out for exercise and relief at least once a day makes all the difference. It breaks up those long solitary hours and gives your dog a chance to get out into the fresh air, stretch their legs and burn off some of the calories they have ingested for breakfast. For many dogs, their daytime dog walker is their daytime buddy.

But with the profession of dog walking becoming more and more popular, there are increasing numbers of dog walkers to choose from in cities. Dog walking and pet sitting services are springing up everywhere and in most cities dog owners are spoiled for choice. Yet all dog walking services are not the same -- there are differences in quality and type of services provided. Here are some tips for choosing the right dog walker for you:

• 
  Make sure you know exactly what you want before you start looking
  
  It's important to be clear about the kind of service you want. A large, established dog walking service is likely to provide peace of mind and more security, but if they're too big you may find their services a little too impersonal -- some guarantee the same walker every day, but some don't. If you want your walker and your dog to build a friendly, trusting relationship, it's worth asking about this. A good dog walking service will assign a regular dog walker to your dog and inform you of any changes in staffing well ahead of time. The downside is that they may be slightly less flexible with scheduling.
  
  On the other hand, a local independent dog walker who works alone is almost guaranteed to build a close relationship with your dog and you are likely to build a friendly relationship with them yourself, which brings familiarity and peace of mind. The disadvantage is that lone walkers rarely have anyone to provide a back up should they become sick or take a vacation.
• 
  Establish an ideal schedule, then be prepared to compromise
  
  Let's face it, the vast majority of dog owners would prefer their dog to be walked around the middle of the day, which generally means between 11am and 3pm in the dog walking business. This means that midday time slots are in great demand and it's unlikely that you'll find someone who can promise your ideal schedule. Be prepared to compromise with a leeway of around an hour either side of your ideal. Additionally, even when you settle on a time you should be aware that dog walking is a profession the nature of which means it is almost impossible to stick to a schedule 100% accurately every day. Walkers often have to travel between dogs and can be held up by a million and one different situations. Don't be too disappointed if your dog walker arrives a little early or late every day -- most of the time it cannot be helped. Be suspicious of any dog walking service that promises punctuality to the minute -- most of the time they're not being honest with you!
• 
  Dog walking in packs or individually?
  
  This is where opinion is split firmly down the middle! It's a common sight in urban centers like New York City to see pack walkers with up to twelve dogs at a time -- but is this really what you want for your dog? The advantage to this kind of service is primarily price -- pack walk rates are sometimes half the price of individual or small group walks and sometimes last longer. On the negative side, your dog will not receive anywhere near the same level of attention it would in a smaller group or alone -- and often much of the walk is spent sitting tied up in large groups on the sidewalk as the dog walker takes a dog upstairs to its apartment. There is no doubt that there is a strong social aspect to such walks which many dogs enjoy, but for the most part the majority of dog owners prefer their dogs to be walked in smaller packs or alone. Many people also worry about dogs fighting in large packs and while this is rare, it does sometimes happen.
  
  An individual, private walk brings with it the walkers undivided attention, but you should also consider that most dogs appreciate some kind of socialization -- so consider choosing a service which walks pairs or small groups of no more than three. Many dog walkers will tell you that dogs who have behavioral "issues" on the street with their owners benefit greatly from being walked with another dog, whose presence often acts to "center" the other dog and induce a good level of focus and attention. However, there is no avoiding the fact that some dogs just will not abide the company of other dogs no matter what! At the end of the day you know your own dog better than anyone and the decision is entirely yours to make.
• 
  Conduct interviews in person
  
  Choosing a dog walker is an important decision to make, not least because you're entrusting the welfare of your precious pet to a stranger but also because the service entails allowing someone access to your apartment on a daily basis. For this reason, you should always look into a number of services and insist on meeting first the business owner, then should you decide to go ahead and use the service, the walker who will be assigned to your dog. A good service will allow you to meet the walker at no cost to yourself. Never feel pressured into agreeing to a schedule over the telephone -- you'll feel much better when you know who you're dealing with personally. All good dog walking services appreciate that you're looking around and shopping for a service and will be happy to submit their pitch to compete with others.
  
  Don't be surprised or feel offended if the business owner will not give you full contact details of the walker however -- they're not trying to put one over on you. It's standard practice in the business to insist that the client conduct all communication (schedule changes, updates etc) through the business owner themselves. This ensures that the owner is kept "in the loop" and is always aware of what's going on. If you do have the walkers contact details however, it is always good practice to notify the owner of all communication between you to prevent misunderstandings or confusion later.
• 
  Have questions prepared in advance
  
  Before you conduct an interview, make sure you have everything you're going to ask written down and prepared beforehand. Ask as many questions as you need to feel comfortable. Don't be afraid to bombard the business owner or walker with requests for information regarding the nature of their service, their philosophy, their practices, their policy and their history. A good dog walking service will also ask you questions about exactly what you want, your likes and dislikes -- and most of all, your dog. Make sure they ask you about your dogs nature and about health issues which may be relevant. If they take notes, that's a good thing! A good dog walking service will keep information about your dog on file, including medical history, favorite treats, command words, things to watch out for, vets information etc. If they don't seem interested in any of this information then it's probably a good idea to choose another service.
  
  Be sure to get everything out in the open regarding prices and fees. Make certain you're both on the same page regarding rates and frequency of payment, about any hidden or supplementary fees (many dog walking services have a surcharge for early morning, evening and weekend walks), about their range of availability (do they cover evenings or weekends?) and about their policy regarding cancellations (most services request that you give 24 hours notice to avoid being charged). The last thing you want is to spoil a good relationship with a reliable dog walking service due to a misunderstanding later which should have been cleared up at the beginning.
  
• 
  Insist on seeing the walker on a trial walk
  
  It's very important that your dog walker both meets the dog beforehand -- and seeing them "in action" with your dog will give you great peace of mind. Not all dog walkers are the same! Some people have a natural affinity with animals and you will see this upon observing dog walker and dog together. Dogs usually have great judgment when it comes to humans and if the walker loves dogs, you'll see it in the way your dog reacts to them. Seeing them walking together on the street is important and you should check to see that they have adequate control skills and that they hold the leash securely. If the walker grips the leash halfheartedly with three fingers and allows your dog to run around in circles, give them a miss! The safety and well being of your dog comes first and foremost. It's also a good idea to see how they handle situations with other dogs in the street -- a good walker will ask the other owner whether their dog is friendly, and allow your dog to approach cautiously should they wish to sniff each other. Additionally, make sure they pick up after your dog and don't allow them to spray inappropriate things like cars, doors -- and especially lampposts which may carry live current!
• 
  Establish acceptable dog walking routes from the start
  
  It's important that you let your walker know exactly where you do and don't find acceptable for your dog to go. If there is a dog park or run nearby, let your walker know whether or not you're happy with them taking your dog there during the day. Many owners prefer that their dogs are taken to a run where they can play with other dogs, but only you know whether or not your dog is suitable for this kind of socialization. Some walkers like to take a bunch of dogs to the run and spend the next hour sitting down watching them play -- if you would prefer a more disciplined kind of street walk then make this clear from the start.
• 
  Ask for references and make sure they're insured and bonded
  
  Every good dog walking service can supply you with references -- other owners who have used their services regularly and are happy. Get the references, and call them! You'll feel so much better in the long run. It's also a good idea to ask whether they're insured and bonded and if so, to let you see their insurance certificates. Their insurance should cover both medical bills should anything happen to your dog in their care, but also liability costs should your dog ever injure someone on the street or cause an accident. Dog walkers rarely have to use their insurance but you'll feel a lot better knowing it's there. The fact that they have taken the trouble to get insured is also a good sign that they take the business seriously and are in it for the duration!
• 
  If you're worried about allowing someone access to your apartment, set up a web camera!
  
  This is a controversial issue with many dog walking services, but more and more home service providers are beginning to accept that home owners feel secure having a small web camera set up to make sure that nothing untoward happens while they're at work. It's also great to be able to see what your dog gets up to during the day! If you are going to set up a camera then it's common decency to inform your walker first. Tell them that you have the camera so that you can watch the dog while you're at work and try not to emphasize the part about checking up on them! Most dog walkers will be fine with this and if they are not -- well, perhaps it's time to seek out someone new.
• 
  Relax!
  
  Nobody finds choosing a dog walker easy. It's very common for first time owners to worry themselves half to death for the first few weeks wondering if their dog is OK and that everything is going well. However, if you have followed the steps above and taken the time to choose the walker you're happiest with, you'll find that your worry subsides after a couple of weeks and you can get down to the business of going about your day and taking for granted that your dog is in good hands. Do your best to build a friendly relationship with your dog walking service -- you'll feel so much better in the long run. Remember -- if they're dog lovers, they're going to end up building an attachment to your dog which rivals yours. This is also worth thinking about should you ever wish to discontinue a long running relationship -- make sure you give the walker a chance to say "goodbye" to your dog and don't be surprised if they request photos and even shed a few tears on their last walk together!

So where to start looking? There are plenty of ways to find a dog walker:

• Check online via a search engine
• Check online via local classified listings like "Craigslist"
• Ask at pet stores and vets offices for the business cards of local services
• Check notice boards in pet stores
• Ask other dog owners, or stop walkers on the street
• Ask at your local dog run or dog park
• Ask in doorman apartment buildings for the names of reputable neighborhood walkers and services

All in all, finding a suitable dog walker for your beloved is not something to be taken lightly -- although nor should it be something to overly stress about. At the end of the day, just remember that whatever your opinion of your walker, the most important opinion is that of your dog! A good dog walking service will leave your dog exercised, relieved and above all safe and happy -- something which you'll be able to judge for yourself as soon as you walk through the front door.

King Pup provides professional NYC Dog Walkers in Manhattan. Visit our website for more information about city dog walking.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=James_T_Phillips

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Dog Breeds - Of Hybrids, Mutts And Purebred Dogs

By Kayyne Nynne

Ever noticed the sniffy hauteur with which purebred dog owners appraise mixed breed dogs? You can almost see them flinch as their condescending eye roves across the form of the objectionable mutt while they grudgingly concede that perhaps their refined canine specimen and that pollutant mutt do indeed belong to the same species! In fact you need only trawl various online dog forums to experience firsthand just how contentious the issue of mutt versus purebred really is. Yet much as purebred dog owners may put down the humble mutt or mixed breed dog the strange thing is:

Purebred Dogs Are Merely Strain-Refined Mutts!

Doberman Pinscher: The Doberman Pinscher dog breed was the brainchild of door-to-door tax collector Herr Louis Doberman. Whether Herr Doberman developed this dog breed as enforcer or protector has never been truly established but one aspect that is not in contention is the fact that his was an unenviable profession! It is well documented that since biblical times the tax collector has been much reviled; even today the tax collector is the subject of scorn and disgust. If you truly want to belabor the point, the next time you are at a social gathering, casually mention that you work for the IRS and watch the little-witnessed phenomenon of how so many can disappear so quickly!

However back to Herr Doberman and his dangerous profession; tired of being pushed about and quite possibly being set upon by irate tax payers, poor Herr Doberman came up with the novel yet economic solution of developing a dog breed that would be both enforcer and protector! The "ingredients" for his new dog breed included the following: Rottweiler; German Pinscher; Greyhound and the Manchester Terrier. Though some wishful fanciers contend that the German Shepherd dog was also involved in the genetic compilation of the Doberman Pinscher, this is highly unlikely since the development of the German Shepherd occurred a little later than that of the Doberman Pinscher.

The early form of the Doberman Pinscher dog was not the sleek lean machine that epitomizes the breed today, but it was a heavier-boned dog somewhat more similar in appearance to the Rottweiler dog breed. Subsequent tweaks by later breeders eventually resulted with the sleek contemporary dog that defines the modern Doberman Pinscher. The point of note here is that the Doberman Pinscher, a well-known dog breed that is officially recognized by countless of International Kennels such as the AKC, was a crossbreed developed from various other dog breeds before it attained the holy-grail status of purebred!

Verdict: The Doberman Pinscher, like all the other so-called purebred dogs is nothing more than a strain refined mutt. Sniff! What can I say...these pesky mongrels are everywhere, most of them disguising themselves as well-established purebreds!

Designer/Hybrid Dogs

Though the Labradoodle is widely accredited as the crossbreed dog that set the whole designer-dog movement rolling along at a good clip, the truth of the matter is that other well established crossbreeds already existed. One such crossbreed or so-called designer dog is the Cockerpoo (Cockapoo), a cross between the American Cocker Spaniel and a Miniature Poodle. The Cockerpoo has been in existence since the 1960s (in contrast to the Labradoodle which was developed in the 1980s). The Cockerpoo is currently so well established in North America that there is a strong movement to consolidate a breeding standard.

These days "Oodles" or "Poos" (Poodle hybrids) are practically everywhere in North America for the simple reason they translate into mega bucks. Though the Labradoodle (perhaps the best known Poodle derivative) was developed with a utilitarian purpose in mind, most designer dogs have no other function than to propel a burgeoning and lucrative market for these hybrid dogs; as it so happens, backyard breeders very quickly recognized the enormous profits to be had from designer dogs.

To date the designer dog market is flourishing, strong evidence that people are quite willing to shell out mega bucks so as to differentiate themselves from the rest of the crowd. And perhaps you've noticed, nobody refers to these mutts as well...mutts, for the simple reason crossbreeds do not satisfy people's sniff factor! (Sniff Factor defines the human tendency to snobbishness; in earlier times the upper classes were predisposed to strolling about with their noses pointed skywards as an expression of their obvious class superiority (as though reaching for air unpolluted by the masses!) Calling a mongrel a designer dog is certain to guarantee a far better price than if the animal were addressed as a crossbreed.

The unfortunate fallout of this whole designer dog issue, is that there're now many more dogs in shelters and rescues, as well as dogs being euthanized, because of unethical breeders, who without regard to genetics, breed thousands of these dogs every year in a bid to capitalize on the public's ignorance and insatiable appetite for "exclusive" or "limited" dogs.

So how did this designer dog brouhaha really begin?

Good Intentions Open Pandora's Box

Sometime during the 1980s, Wally Conron, the breeding manager for the Royal Guide Dog Association of Australia embarked on a quest to develop a non-allergenic guide dog for a visually impaired client whose husband happened to be allergic to common dog fur. Conron settled on the standard Poodle as the ideal cross with the already established Labradors in use at their center, for the simple fact that the Poodle,s as a highly trainable working dog with tightly curled coat, constituted a the best-fit match.

After two years of trials including 33 successive disappointment runs, Wally Conron hit pay dirt! A cross mating between one of their most prized Labradors and a Poodle specimen resulted in a litter of 3 non-allergenic puppies. Sultan the 1st ever Labradoodle destined for guide-dog greatness was introduced to his new owner amidst great fanfare. The bonding was a great success and Conron was confident that the remaining two puppies would quickly be snapped up; after all, the center at which he worked had a 6-month backlog of requests from people hoping to foster a dog. But he miscalculated; nobody it seemed wanted a dog that was associated with the dirty word crossbreed.

As eight weeks rolled by, the remaining two pups still hadn't found homes and the critical-period window in which they needed to bond with a new owner and thus become successful guide dogs was closing fast. Out of sheer frustration Wally Conron decided to call his new dog breed the Labradoodle and thenceforth stopped referring to them as crossbreeds. That was the eureka moment he had been waiting for (evidence of the sniff factor in play again)!

Within weeks, requests for this new "miracle dog" inundated the center...the rest as the saying goes, was history! Other than the Labradoodle, few designer dogs have been developed for utilitarian purposes and in fact for the most part new breeds are introduced for purely cosmetic purposes. Having said that though, it would be remiss not to acknowledge the fact that some new dog breeds are currently being developed to address the all pervasive problem of genetic disease in the canine; especially in the more popular breeds.

Some other well-established crossbreeds are the Bull Boxer which is a cross between the Boxer and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. The Bull Boxer is said to be a more affable dog, especially towards other pets, than the Staffordshire Bull Terrier and is also reputed to be less inclined to exhibit the immature behaviorisms characteristic of the Boxer. By and large though, the substantial prevalence of the designer-dog set is to be found firmly within the realm of Poodle mixes. Such Poodle mixes usually go by names, which if not exactly flattering, are to say the least, colorful:

1. Doxiepoo (Dachshund Poodle Mix)

2. Papipoo (Papillon Poodle Mix)

3. Goldendoodle (Golden Retriever Poodle Mix)

4. Jack-A-Poo (Jack Russell Terrier Poodle Mix)

5. Irish Doodle (Irish Setter Poodle Mix) to name but a few.

Verdict: Sniff! These dogs may go under the guise of designer dog...but let's be honest, they are no more than glorified mutts!

The Humble Yet Ubiquitous Mutt

So where does the lowly mutt fit in this picture of brave new doggy world; that is to say, other than bearing the brunt of the purebred afficionado's scorn! Well as I have amply illustrated in the paragraphs above, all dog breeds are essentially mixed breeds even the purebreds. Purebred dogs are so entitled because over several generations they have been specifically bred for selective traits. But therein lies their Achilles' heel or weakness. Due to such selective-trait breeding, purebred dogs have an inherently high prevalence of genetic disease.

A classic example illustrating some of the problems encountered in trait-selective breeding can be found in the history of the Dalmatian. Breeding for the sharply-defined spot trait unintentionally also led to selective breeding for an abnormal uric acid gene (case of gene linkage). The result was that the Dalmatian dog breed was dogged (no pun intended) with hereditary urine stone disease. In an attempt to rectify the problem yet retain the desired spot pattern, the Dalmatian was crossbred with various Pointer breeds (Sniff! Sniff! What did I tell you...all mutts the lot of them!).

Conversely the lack of trait-selective breeding and a diverse gene pool in the mutt makes such dogs so much healthier and more robust than their purebred counterparts! Thus unless you're going to develop your own dog breed, if all you're looking for in a dog is a pet, do yourself, your pocket as well as the millions of dogs on death row a favor and adopt a dog from a shelter! Trust me, they make excellent pets. (Shelters cannot house dogs forever and each year more than 7,000,000 cats and dogs are euthanized!)

Verdict: Hmmm...the lowly mutt. At last! A dog without pretensions!

Dog Breeds

Kayye Nynne is the webmaster of http://www.dog-breeds-spot.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kayyne_Nynne

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